October 2010

A limited edition Platinum version of the Glashutte Original Senator Chronometer Marine Chronometer has been released, in a limited edition production of 13 units. These sets include 13 limited production refurbished Marine Chronometer Clocks from the 1970’s that were discovered during preparations for opening the German Watch Museum in Glashutte.

Since this is one of my Grail Watches, a limited edition of 13 pieces in Platinum presented with a beautiful Marine Chronometer such as this was something I couldn’t mention. While all Glashutte watches are built to Chronometer specs and perform extremely accurately, the Senator Chronometer is the first Glashutte watch to actually be Chronometer certified.

Now that I have recently sold my GO Senator Sixties, I must seek to add a new Glashutte Original watch to my collection – which will it be? Not this one – as I doubt I can even come close to affording it!

Most watch aficionados have heard of UTS Watches, and have seen them pop up now and then in discussion forums and sale forums. What many may not know is that every watch is hand machined and fabricated by Nicolaus Spinner in Germany, one of the Principals of UTS Watches. Along with Stephen Newman, the President and CEO who is based in California, USA, the team fabricates entirely in Germany and is able to market and sell their watches in the USA. They are celebrating 12 years in the business!

The company is primarily famous for their 1000M, 2000M and 3000M Divers, which all use progressively more advanced machining processes and features to allow the depth rating to increase. The 3000M Diver in particular uses a ceramic ball-bearing bezel system with a unique locking system invented by Spinner.

If you’ve never handled UTS watch cases in person, then you should know that they are some of the most well-made cases in the industry with incredible attention to detail and precision fit and finish.

I am planning to add the UTS 1000m v2 GMT as pictured above to my collection sometime, but as with most of these specialty brands, resale is often difficult so may hold off until I can find a good deal on a used one.

After the initial release of 88 Limited edition pieces of the XXL Aqua Terra Small Seconds in June, Omega Terra has released a similar regular edition of this 49.2mm beast. This is the second watch from Omega to features this 2211 movement, which appears to be the replacement for their 2201 movement that is used in the 49mm Aqua Terra Railmaster. That movement is a Unitas 6498 base, but this one is an automatic as far as I can tell, and some sources quote it as being an in-house caliber. I am interested to see what it is.

Really like this one as it has similar styling on the dial as the regular 8500 movements Aqua Terra line. I have one of the full-sized ones and very much enjoy the watch.

Not all of us have the fortune of being blessed with enough money to afford one of those beautifully crafted Grand Sonneries, so sometimes we have to live vicariously through youtube videos and the mouth-watering photographs in the magazines and watch blogs like these:

For me, I own several mantle and shelf clocks designed by Hermle that do a wonderful sounding westminster chime that can satisfy my appetite enough. Usually they can be had for $100-200 as opposed to the $100,000-$1,000,000!

Ever wonder what the difference in sound is between a Minute Repeater, Westminster Chime, Carillon and Grand Sonnerie is? They all have distinctly different chime sounds.

Watchtime Magazine has them here for you to hear:

Here is a video showing some of the processes and work that goes into creating a Sonnerie:

One of the more later Eterna pieces I picked up is this beautiful Eterna Soleure Moonphase Monopusher Chrono. Its probably my favourite Eterna watch that they have made, and has such a unique way of presenting the subdials. The movement runs on the rock solid Valjoux 7751 with the 12hr Chrono counter removed.

As you can see, the dial has a very clean appearance especially without the 12hour subdial. The 7751 positions the date on the outer ring via a pointer-date hand. Day and Month are both indicated at the 12 o’clock subdial. Month and date are both adjusted via the first crown position, with the month changing when the date does a full rotation. Day of the week is changed via a recessed pusher at the 10 o’clock position.

The brushed sunburst style dial looks amazing in my opinion. Quite often, brushed sunburst patterns can look cheap or unfinished, like Doxa’s sometimes do (no offense Doxa, I do love your watches). Eterna does a great job with this one, and it looks all class, and the applied dots on Eterna’s logo look fantastic. No lume whatsoever on this dial, it is a dress watch. Great blued Chronograph hands complete the package and the patterned subdials offer nice contrast against the dial.

The stainless steel watch case measures a healthy 42mm, but wears very large in my opinion. It seems to wear more like 43-44mm, possibly due to the thin bezel and large face. I just can’t get enough of the dial on this watch, they did such a fantastic job!

As you can see, this is a monopusher chronograph which means the same Pusher starts, stops and resets the chronograph mechanism. This is a very neat and nice complication/feature, but it does have one limitation: You can’t stop the chronograph and then start it again, your only option would be to reset it.

The crown has the notched edges with the 5 round notches representing the Eterna Ball Bearing logo.. I’ve always liked the way they designed the crown on these models.

Beautiful understated back. Not too much going on, but a beautiful fully polished back with plenty of room for engraving if you so wish. Caseback is held on by only 4 screws on this model, which is good for 50m of water resistance. Not too shabby.

The single-fold deployant is very nicely crafted on the Soleure Moonphase Monopusher, featuring double push-button release and a very large clasp. The Crocodile flank strap is also very well made and nice and wide, suiting the extra thickness of the watch head nicely. The lugs on this one are also slightly curved, a nice extra touch of class.

There it is, sitting happily on my wrist. Currently my favourite Eterna, though it probably still doesn’t get as much wrist time as it should. Time to get it out!

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