September 2012


Navitimer Blue Sky Limited Edition 60th anniversary

Breitling celebrates the legendary Navitimer’s 60 years in flight

To mark the 60th anniversary of the Navitimer chronograph, the cult model among pilots and aviation enthusiasts, Breitling is introducing a 500-piece limited edition with an elegant dial in an exclusive shade of blue and aptly named the Navitimer Blue Sky.

In 1952, Breitling – already a firm fixture among aeronautical professionals – decided to create a new “wrist instrument” specifically designed with aviators in mind. The result was the Navitimer with its famous circular slide rule providing simple and fast handling of all calculations relating to airborne navigation: an authentic wristworn instrument panel. In an era preceding the advent of electronic calculators, this model unique in its kind was soon adopted by many pilots for flight preparation and monitoring – whether it came to calculating average speed, distance covered, fuel consumption or rates of ascent and descent. The only authentic aviation chronograph in widespread use, it was naturally chosen as the official watch by the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, the largest of its kind in the world and of which the logo often appears on models from the 1950s and 1960s. The Navitimer features a functional design and a highly original technical yet elegant look that is recognizable at first glance. It thus established itself as one of the ten great 20th century watchmaking classics, a timeless benchmark in its field and a reliable value. Continuously made since 1952, while remaining loyal to the aesthetic of the original, it is the world’s oldest mechanical chronograph still in production.

A handsomely stylish limited edition

To celebrate its 60 years in flight, the favorite watch among aviation enthusiasts is now available in a 500-piece steel limited edition with a magnificent blue dial, a silver inner bezel and a red central chronograph seconds hand. A handsomely stylish new face for the most emblematic Breitling model. A transparent caseback affords a chance to admire Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01, the best selfwinding chronograph movement. The series number is engraved on the case middle at 9 o’clock, and the color match is reinforced by an exclusive dark blue crocodile leather strap. The Navitimer Blue Sky Limited Edition 60th anniversary is also available on the Navitimer bracelet – or the highly original perforated Air Racer bracelet.

Navitimer: the legend lives on.

GoS releases their Spring Season watch, in a limited edition of 5. Why they’re releasing the Spring model on the first day of Fall, I’m not sure, but what the heck, they’re Watchmakers, not meteorologists. It is a beautifully crafted watch, like all of the GoS pieces, and features Damascus Steel cases and damascus dials with unique 18k hands.

“GoS proudly presents – Spring – the third model in the Nordic Seasons series of watches that are designed with inspiration from the rich contrasts of the nordic seasons. The dial for the Spring is made in tempered pattern welded steel, also known as damascus steel, that has been hand forged in Johan Gustafsson’s unique Explosion pattern. The yellow tempered coloring of the steel meant to illustrate the return of the sun, which is a very
important aspect of life in Scandinavia.

Since ancient times, people living in the northern hemisphere have had a need to celebrate the arrival of spring with cleansing bonfires and celebration at the end of a cold and dark winter. Swedes do this on April 30, Valborg (Walpurgis Night). Normally, Spring is already well established in the southern reaches of the country, while northerners still have to wait a few weeks longer. Nevertheless, this is the evening when Swedes welcome the Spring.”

Watch series – Nordic Seasons
? Case: Stainless steel and stainless damascus steel 44/45mmx10mm (10ATM)
? Lug width: 22mm
? Glass: Flat sapphire glass with AR coating
? Movement: Swiss manual ETA 6498
? Movement refinement: Refinished and improved to chronometre grade by the swiss company Soprod.
? Dial: Handforged damascus steel
? Index ring/rehaut: Solid gold, shaped and polished by hand
? Hands: Solid gold, shaped and polished by hand
? Crown: 9mm in finegrained stainless damascus stainless steel, double gasket crown inset
? Case finishing: Stainless damascus steel, highgloss polished with GoS logo engraved on case side.
? Strap: Handcrafted strap in soft nubuck leather fitted with GoS stainless steel buckle

Damascus steel movement
? Movement: Swiss manual ETA 6498 : yellow
? Movement refinement: Improved to chronometre grade by the swiss company Soprod.
? Movement modification: 3/4 bridge made in solid handforged damascus steel.
? Limitation: 4pcs, available as an option to the Nordic Season series.

Watch Model – Nordic Seasons Spring
? Dial: Handforged explosion damascus steel, tempered to receive a main nuance in yellow
? Hands: Solid 18K gold in the red swedish gold nuance
? Index ring: Solid 18K gold in the red swedish gold nuance
? Limitation: 5pcs

Presentation Box
? Individually crafted box in svepask technique of birch wood
? Colored with natural pigments mized in linseed oil
? Covered with high grade natural wax and polished to a deep finish
? Protection box of black&grey hard paper
? Guarantee certificate, two years guarantee

I was browsing around on a British Watch forum, and stumbled onto this brand called Pacardt. The cases were really cool, reminding me of Kobold and and another German Boutique brand – UTS, both of which have caught my eye at one time or another. Pacardt leans towards the chunky side, but maybe not quite as chunky as UTS. The watches have a minimalist style, with a less-is-more approach to dial design.

Currently all their watches appear to use what they call the 1T case style and come in PVD as well as plain Stainless Steel. They have an impressive 1000m water resistance, with the help of a 5mm sapphire crystal. Price is €440-750, which is pretty reasonable. Interestingly, right now I can’t tell where you can buy these aside from eBay.

Case diameter: 45.5 mm
Case thickness: 15.5 mm
Case material: stainless steel
Case back: screwed
Crown: screw-down
Bezel: unidirectional rotatable, 120 clicks
Movement: automatic, ETA2824-2 Swiss Made
Water resistant: 1000 m
Date: yes
Crystal: Sapphire crystal, 5 mm, screwed with case
Luminous hour markers: Super-LumiNova Grade A
Luminous hands: Super-LumiNova Grade A
Bracelet: silicone strap
Lug width: 24 mm, screwed
Buckle: Pin buckle, screwed

Website: http://www.pacardt.com/

Another new “Midnight Carbon” model, aka Black Steel, from Breitling. This new special limited edition Bentley Barnato is limited to 1000 pieces worldwide, and features the smaller 42mm diameter. Movement is the Caliber 41B. A cool take on one of the best Breitling for Bentley models to be released in a while.

Breitling for Bentley Barnato 42 Midnight Carbon
Specs:
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Calibre Breitling 41B
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap: Black Rubber
Case: Midnight Carbon Black Steel

A black-clad sports model

Barnato. The name of the most famous among the “Bentley Boys”, the men engaged in a passionate pursuit of victories and accomplishments that included winning the Le Mans 24 Hours Race no less than five times between 1924 and 1930. Also the name of an exceptional chronograph combining superlative style with peerless performance. Breitling for Bentley now interprets this sporty model in a 1,000-piece limited edition entirely clothed in black – from the case made of a steel that is the color of night thanks to a highly resistant carbon-based treatment, through the dial to the supple and sturdy rubber strap. The “instrument panel” appearance is reinforced by the chromed steel-rimmed counters, the red accents and a tachometric scale on the inner bezel. The generous size of the bezel heights the effect of the elegant raised knurled motif inspired by the famous Bentley radiator grilles. The large hour-markers and the oversized hands enhanced by a luminescent coating guarantee easy reading of the time in any circumstances, even in the heat of action. This ardent and sophisticated sports model is powered by a selfwinding chronograph movement chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) – the ultimate token of precision and reliability. Bentley Barnato 42 Midnight Carbon: the stuff of a champion.

Finally, I have reviewed the outstanding Rolex DeepSea Sea-Dweller, often shortened to DSSD. This is a beast of a watch, and pretty awesome to boot. Very imposing size, and very hard to miss. Hope you enjoy the review. The watch is rated to 3,900m water resistance.

Model: 116660, 116660-BKSO
Movement: Automatic, Certified Chronometer (COSC)
Caliber: Rolex 3135
Case: Stainless steel, Ring Lock System, titanium caseback
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 18mm
Weight: 215g
Dial: Black
Features: Date at 3:00
Bezel: Black ceramic (Cerachrom)
Band: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet, Glidelock clasp, Fliplock dive suit extension link
Lug Width: 21mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire (5mm)
Depth Rating: 3,900m or 12,800ft, equipped with a helium escape valve
Crown: Screw-down

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