The Breitling Watch Blog

Revue Thommen reveals the GT 72 Movement, featuring a nice in-house very thing hand-wound movement. The watch reminds me a bit of the Nomos stuff.

REVUE THOMMEN – Classical 82 Round

Revue Thommen can pride itself on having produced over one hundred movements since 1853. In keeping with this proud tradition, its latest model, the Classical 82 Round, houses the brand’s GT 82 movement. Inspired by legendary pilot watches, this timepiece has a round case, though the dial is presented in a more contemporary fashion, with shades of pink gold delicately highlighting the hour-markers and hands. One of Switzerland’s oldest watch manufacturers offers here a neo-classical model that exalts simplicity, elegance and refinement in the purest tradition of horological savoir-faire.

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical GT 82, 17 jewels, 40-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes and seconds

Case
Stainless steel or 18K pink gold, 36 mm
Sapphire crystal front and back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Silvered or black
Hour-markers and Arabic numerals plated with pink gold
Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Strap
Alligator

Porsche Design released yet another Porsche-style watch with another 7750 Movement for SIHH 2011. Cool looking watches with great Porsche style, but they are all starting to blend into each other now.

PORSCHE DESIGN – P’6930 Chronograph

It’s not trying to hide it. In fact, it’s very proud of it! The P’6930 chronograph draws its inspiration from the legendary P’6910 and offers a variant with a consciously technical appeal. Its precision is enhanced by the use of titanium, the brand’s signature. An intersect between the automobile industry and watchmaking, it boasts many elements that evoke the Carrera GT: the pedal-shaped pushpieces, the grooved strap with its tyre-tread design, and the 7750 calibre “steering-wheel” rotor. A powerful, discreet and functional timekeeper, with well-oiled engineering.

Movement
Automatic, Valjoux 7750 calibre, COSC-certified, 28,800 vib/h, 25 jewels, 131/4 lignes, 48-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date and chronograph

Case
Titanium or black PVD-coated titanium, 47 mm
Anti-reflective, scratch-resistant convex sapphire crystal with minute-circle printed on the underside
Sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 50 m / 5 ATM

Dial
Black honeycomb
White skeleton hands, Arabic numerals and baton hourmarkers rhodium-plated or coated with green Superluminova
Black hour, minute and small seconds counters at 6, 12 and 9 o’clock respectively
Black, red-tipped direct-drive centre seconds hand
Date at 3 o’clock

Strap
Grooved black natural rubber, matching folding clasp in titanium

This new Epos Heure Sautante is the first Epos in a while that has intrigued me. The majority of their line kind of disappears into the woodwork due to their somewhat uninspired designs. This one has a great look, with a cool sunken date wheel. I like it.

EPOS – 3405 Heure Sautante

The 3405 Jumping Hours from Epos is an incomparable work of art. The time is displayed through a large off-centre window at 3 o’clock, a world first, while the date is displayed below the dial in a highly original round, recessed window. An instantly-identifiable, unconventional creation. The Côtes de Genève decoration on the dial adds the finishing touch to this remarkable work of precision.

Movement
Automatic mechanical, circular-grained EPOS HS, 21 jewels

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date

Case
Steel with pink gold PVD coating, 43 mm
Anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Transparent back
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Black with Côtes de Genève decoration
Luminescent hands and applied hour-markers
Jumping hours window and date at 3 and 6 o’clock respectively

Strap/bracelet
Black leather or stainless steel with folding clasp

Other versions
Stainless steel case, silvered, black or brown dial

Wow, now this is a cool watch!! The triple circle gear spins around and turns the square gear, which is very cool looking!

MAURICE LACROIX – Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde

Maurice Lacroix is never one to shy away from a challenge! Having pushed back the limits with the Roue Carrée by giving a totally new angle to mark the passage of time, Maurice Lacroix has now created a seconds mechanism that differs from its circular counterparts. Activated by a toothed clover-leaf wheel, the small seconds comes to life in a lively and steadfast rhythm provided by an openwork square wheel. To leave the seconds hand squarely in the spotlight, the hours and minutes are indicated by simple central hands coated with Superluminova. Contemporary and revolutionary, the Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde has given time a new philosophy, in which aesthetics and engineering go hand in hand.

Movement
Hand-wound, Maurice Lacroix ML 156 calibre, 18,000 vib/h, 34 jewels, rhodium, “Grand Colimaçon” (snailed) decoration, 45-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve indicator

Case
Polished and satin-brushed steel, 43 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Screw-down back with large sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 50 m / 5 ATM

Dial
Black or rhodium finish
Small seconds indicated by a square wheel
Seconds pointer at 6 o’clock coated with Superluminova, activated by a clover-leaf wheel at 9 o’clock
Diamond-tipped and facetted hands and seconds pointer, coated with white C1 Superluminova
Power-reserve indicator at 3 o’clock

Strap
Large-scaled black genuine crocodile, black calfskin lining, matching steel folding clasp

MAURICE LACROIX – Masterpiece Double Rétrograde Edition Limitée

Flagship of the Maurice Lacroix brand, the Masterpiece Double Rétrograde is celebrated for its interpretation of the retrograde complications that the company has mastered to perfection. This year, for the first time, it features a version with an automatic movement. In a beautifully balanced choreography, the striking blue dial displays a ballet of fine pink gold hands moving gracefully around arcs and circles, each at its own rhythm, each in its own corner. A bright and lively contrast that encapsulates the collection’s credo, “Never Stop Moving”. Series limited to 50.

Movement
Automatic, Maurice Lacroix ML 191 calibre, 18,000 vib/h, 74 jewels, rhodium-plated, vertically brushed, “Grand Colimaçon” (snailed) decoration, 52-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone and power reserve

Case
18K pink gold, satin and polished finishing, 46 mm
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
Screw-down sapphire crystal back, numbered
Water-resistant to 50 m / 5 ATM

Dial
Solid 925 silver, deep blue, sunray satin finish
18K pink gold applied hourmarkers and hands
Retrograde second time zone and date displays at 12 o’clock at 6 o’clock respectively
Small seconds counter at 9 o’clock and power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock

Strap
Large-scaled black crocodile leather, black calfskin lining, with 18K pink gold folding clasp

I had talked a bit about Linde Werdelin watches previously, since they started catching my eye. Linde has just released a new watch dubbed the SpidoSpeed Chronongraph which uses a similar case to their SpidoLite watches but slightly thicker to accomodate the Chronograph Pushers and with even more skeletonization.

I just met up with a fellow watch collector and got to check out his Linde Werdelin 3 Timer, the first time I’ve had the opportunity to handle one of these magnificent watches in the flesh. Such a beautiful peice, and incredibly unique watch, especially when worn with their facetted armadillo style bracelet. I have already told him to sell it to me when he tires of it!

For now, check out the Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Chronograph:

Powered by a Concepto movement (2251 calibre) partially visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, the SpidoSpeed has a specially designed rotor also graphically aligned with the SpidoSpeed case. On choosing a Concepto movement for the new model, Jorn Werdelin said “Concepto movements have attracted a lot of interest in the world of watch making in the last years for their quality, durability, reliability and versatility in terms of finishing and complications. It was very important for us to have an integrated chronograph for the SpidoSpeed so the pushers and the crown would be at the same level.”

Specs:
Movement: Concepto Calibre 2251
Case Size: 44mm x 46mm x 15mm
Sapphire crystal
Water Resistant to 100 meters
MSRP is 11,670 Euros.

Doxa’s eagerly awaited SUB4000T 10th Anniversary watch has finally been released, and is quite the doozy. Massive 47mm case, and 4000ft water resistance aided by the side-mounted helium escape valve. The watch features a Power Reserve indicator that is dubbed “Safe Dive”, which almost makes it sound like a depth meter.

The watch has an oyster style bracelet, which is different from Doxa’s current offerings.

Movement: ETA 2897 Top Grade, 28,800 vph, 21 jewels Swiss Made. 42 Hour power reserve.
Case: Stainless steel
Case diameter: 47.00 mm
Lug width: 22.00 mm
Case height: 16.00 mm
Price: $1890

Following the trend of Limited Editions, Breitling has continued with the Montbrillant 01 Limited, featuring the Display back that will only be available on the Limited edition.

Movement: Breitling Caliber 01, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 47 jewels. Over 70-hour power reserve. 1/4th second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Calendar.
Case:
Steel or 18K red gold.
Waterresistant to 3 bars.
Bidirectional rotating bezel (slide rule).
Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback.
Diameter: 40 mm.
Dial: Mercury Silver.
Straps/bracelets: Barenia leather, crocodile leather/ Air Racer or Navitimer (steel only).

“Montbrillant 01 Limited

Breitling is writing a new chapter in the history of the Montbrillant chronograph by equipping it for the first time with Caliber 01, a high-performance movement entirely developed and produced in the company workshops. A limited series completely dedicated to style and accomplishment.

Endowed with a look inspired by the 1940s and 50s and featuring a circular slide rule for pilots, the Montbrillant chronograph was named after the building on Montbrillant Street, in the heights of La Chaux-de-Fonds, which housed the Breitling workshops from 1892 to 1979. It was in these premises that the brand developed the inventions and improvements that were to change the face of the wrist chronograph, including the first independent pushpiece (1915), the second independent pushpiece (1934) and the first selfwinding chronograph (1969). This was also where Breitling produced its first onboard chronographs that contributed to its status as “official supplier to world aviation” during the boom of air transport on propeller-powered and subsequently jet aircraft.

Today, the Montbrillant is associating its name with another milestone in the history of the brand with the winged B by hosting Breitling’s Caliber 01, the most reliable and efficient of all selfwinding chronograph movements, produced using a revolutionary assembly process. The Montbrillant 01 Limited is issued in twin editions of 2,000 in steel and 200 in red gold, with the individual number engraved at 9 o’clock on the case middle. The Mercury Silver dial features elegant hands, the traditional central hundredth of a second counter, and an 18K gold version of the stylized B that served as the brand symbol until the mid-20th century. A transparent sapphire crystal caseback provides generous views of Breitling’s Caliber 01, chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), with its column wheel and its original structure. A collector’s piece for all those with a love of history in movement.”

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