October 2010


Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren continue their innovation with their GoS watches by introducing Damascus Steel movement bridges and balance cock. While i’ve talked about their Damascus Watches in the past, I’ve never seen anything like this before, and am quite sure it will be the first production watches at least with Damascus movement bridge and balance cock. As you can see, the movement bridge has been changed in shape from the original Unitas 6498 watch movement, and uses the base Soprod Enhanced Unitas 6498 for the movement. I’ve just received these Photos from GoS as they just got them in a few days ago and do not have the damascus Balance Cocks yet. When these ship, they will have them.

Very cool enhancements to an excellent movement. I am an avid knife collector and have always appreciated the sophistication of Damascus steel. I personally would not mind seeing these done with a powdered steel or exotic steel damascus like Devin Thomas. While I like old-fashioned ladder pattern Damascus, some variation is always nice.

More info on their watches here:
http://www.goswatches.com/

I know I mentioned the Sellita SW500 when it was released in an earlier article, but it would probably be pertinent to give a brief once over of all three of Sellita’s movements and which of ETA’s movements they are copies of. This is interesting to many people since ETA is no longer selling movements to just anybody, and this leaves a big gap in the industry that Sellita seems content to fill.

Sellita SW200

The Sellita SW200 is a clone of ETA’s 2824 movement, but has 26 Jewels, as opposed to the ETA 2824’s 25 Jewels. Aside from this, the movement is nearly identical. The Selitta SW200 comes in two additional variations, the SW220, which has a side-by-side Day Date, usually displayed in the 3 o’clock position, and the SW240, which has the Day-Date with the Day appearing at the 12 o’clock position, like the Rolex President.

Diameter: 25.60 mm
Thickness: 4.60 mm
Vph: 28,800

Sellita SW300

Currently, the SW300 is only available in one variation and is a copy of the ETA 2892 movement, with 25 Jewels instead of 21 Jewels. Everything else is virtually identical.

Diameter: 25.60 mm
Thickness: 3.60 mm
Vph: 28,800

Sellita SW500

The Sellita SW500, which I talked about previously, is the copy of the Valjoux 7750. The Sellita SW500 features 25 Jewels, the exact same number as current or late Valjoux 7750 movements. Curious why they didn’t add an extra jewel or two to this one as well.

Diameter: 30.00 mm
Thickness: 7.90 mm
Vph: 28,800

There’s the basics. There are a few other sites that give some information on these movements, but I wanted to keep a record of them here as well as I think we will see a lot of these in the days to come.

Video review of my Louis Erard 1931 manual winder in 18K Rose Gold. My first solid rose gold watch, and its one of my favourite dress watches. In a 40.5mm solid rose gold case, fitted with a Peseux 7001, and decorated by Louis Erard, the watch presents a great value for someone looking for a solid gold watch on a budget (That would be me!). Buckle is a matching 18K RG and the dial is a nice matte black. Hope you enjoy the video review:

This was announced earlier this year, but I figured I would drop a mention of the New Bulgari Caliber 168 movement since there are a few neat things about it. Its named the 168 due to the number of components in the watch, but it also happens to mean something interesting in Chinese. In Chinese 168 would mean “always getting wealthy” or something similar to that.

(photo borrowed from puristspro since there doesn’t appear to be any other available)

Currently, the Caliber 168 will only be available in their Sotirio collection and features a very unique looking rotor as you can see. The movement was designed in-house after they purchased the movement manufacturer Leschot Group. The movement beats at 28,800 vph. Check out the video below on the Caliber 168!


HORLOGERIE – SOTIRIO BULGARI, CALIBER 168
Uploaded by Tendance-Horlogerie. – Watch original web videos.

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