It seems like everyone and their dog has a Swiss Unitas 6497/6498 based movement watch now. They tend to be popular with Vintage Military style watches like Panerai, Glycine, and even Swiss Army. I’ve taken a small sample of Swiss Unitas 6497/4598 watches that I’ve owned and comparing the pricing and value of each one, they are quite different, and the cost jump is a big one. I just finished typing this article, but my browser crashed, and stupid wordpress did not save any of it, so I am retyping thie whole thing. Unfortunately since I am a bit frustrated and impatient it might not be up to the quality as the original one.
So anyway, These are 5 Swiss Unitas watches that I’ve owned, and I’ll be giving a small description of them.
Ollech & Wajs XXL Unitas – $300
The Ollech & Wajs represents the entry level into the Swiss Unitas 6497 world, with a very basic movement and case. Case does use 316L Stainless steel, but crystals are both Mineral to save on costs. Though the savings is a minimal one, it does help keep the price down. Movement is not tweaked in anyway, and I even doubt it has been rebuilt from the factory. Probably just drop-in movement straight from the package.. this example actually has some scuffing on the bridges.
Wilson Watch Works Navigator – $460
As you may have seen the Wilson Watch Works review that I posted not long ago, this is a very good watch for the money. Complete assembled with Care in the USA, with German and Swiss parts only. The Lume is fantastic, and the case is top notch. The movement has been reassembled by Chris and is guaranteed for a year. His work is reliable and the accuracy is very good.
Victorinox Swiss Army Mach IV – $650
I’ve been very impressed with all the Swiss Army watches that I’ve handled and owned lately, and they are all Swiss made, with sapphire crystals on the front. The one has a basic Unitas movement, but is signed with the Victorinox logo, which is a nice touch. Dual crowns allow the rotating of the inner bezel as well, giving this one a slightly more complicated case. The price might be a bit enthusiastic, as they are available online new usually in the $350-400US range.
Sinn 6100 – $2470
The Sinn represents a large jump in price from the above models, and was initially a $1750 watch until the price increase shot it up nearly $1000. This one has an in-house modified movement to create a regulator layout named the Caliber SZ04. This one even comes with a loupe to check it out as it has a very beautiful guiloche dial. Sapphire Crystals front and back and accuracy to wihtin COSC specs are just some of the features it boasts.
Panerai 114 – $4800
Very near the top of the range of Unitas 6497 based watches is the Panerai PAM114 and the other manual wind models from the historic line. This is quite a modified movement from Panerai with completely decorated and redesigned bridges that are unique to Panerai, though some Chinese copycat companies have taken to copying their bridges. This movement is called the PAM OP X.
Summary
There are many other watches that use the Unitas based movement and these are just a few of the ones I have owned recently. Some other companies you might want to check out are Meistersinger, Maurice LaCroix, Kobold, U-Boat, Invicta, and many others. There is such a wide range of models available that it is difficult to name them all.
Just keep in mind that this movement has seen a lot of activity and can be easily modified to have some very interesting complications. Maurice LaCroix in particular has done some interesting things with it. Hope you enjoyed the article.
I went on a bit of an affordable watch buying spree and picked up several watches in the Sub-$1000 category. Three of these watches clocked in under $500, and it gave me the inspiration for an article because I realized that there is definately a niche that these affordable watches fill. I have had my share of bargain mechanicals liks Trias in the past, and was disappointed. This new breed of watch is quite different from the last, however. I’ll be releasing video reviews for some of these watches as well in the future. The prices I am going by are the available online prices for these watches new, not the MSRP or the used prices. I’ll start from lowest to highest priced.
1. Alpha Radiomir Automatic – $65US
The first watch is an Alpha Radiomir with a Japanese Miyota movement, probably the best movement that Alpha uses, as most of their other watches use fairly unreliable Chinese movements with questionable accuracy. Their cases on the other hand are very well made, and a steal given the ridiculously low prices. This is the perfect mechanical watch if your budget is below $100.
2. Ticino Stealth Military Pilot Watch – $199US
The Ticino is a nice budget watch with a cool Pilot look without the price tag associated with it like most 47mm pilots like the Steinhart/Debaufre Nav B-Uhr, or even more so the IWC Big Pilot. The Ticino is also available in this cool stealthy black case with a completely sterile dial. Very nice touch. The watch is completely Chinese made, but good value, especially if this is all you can afford. Manual winding Unitas clone movement in this one.
3. Pyrolume Mechanical Pilot – $400US
Pyrolume is an interesting brand out of the US here, hand assembled in a one-man shop. The watches are mostly constructed out of Chinese-made parts, except for the dials which are CNC machined in-house by the watchmaker. The mechanical movements are either Chinese Unitas Clones or Japanese Miyota automatics mostly, very similar to the $65 Alpha Watch. The watches have very unique and memorable dials of the watchmaker’s own designs, and are the primary reason for buying these watches. The accuracy on mine is not very good. For a primarily Chinese-made product, it is pricey, but his dials are one-of-a-kind. Currently available only through eBay.
4. Swiss Army Ambassador Day-Date – $450US
Victorinox Swiss Army is probably one of the most underrated brands of watches I have ever seen. Their watches are a bit more mass-market, and likely brushed aside by WIS, but the value is undeniable. Retail price on this Ambassador is around $750, but it can usually be picked up online for around $400-475US new. This is a completely swiss made watch, with a decorated rotor, sapphire crystals front and back! And not to mention the dial is quite stunning. Pricing is very much inline with Hamilton watches. Victorinox makes a very good watch for the money.
5. Wilson Watch Works Unitas Navigator – $460US
Wilson watch works is one of my favourite places to pick up a $500 watch. His watches are probably the priciest of the bunch, but justifiably so. The cases are sourced from Germany, as are the dials, sapphire crystals, Double AR coating on the front. Movement is Swiss made Unitas, and timed and regulated. Compared with watches at several hundred more. At this price competition is stiff, but the Wilson Stands out especially if you like the pilot style watch. Currently available only through eBay.
Overall, all these watches offer something unique for the pricepoint, and will appeal to different people. The key thing is to remember that there are lots of great choices out there for any budget, and to have fun when you are collecting!
I’ve posted a new Breitling video review, and this one is of the intricate Breitling Montbrillant Datora. The slightly larger Navitimer has a very complex dial with a full calendar complication. Beautifully executed watch, in a larger 43mm diameter. This is probably one my favourite Navitimers along with the World. Sometimes you want one smaller, but not too small. The Datora really fits the bill.
The IWC Portuguese is one of the most recognizable classics in the IWC line of watches, having changed very little from generation to generation, though new variations have been coming out such as the F.A. Jones, 7 Day 5000 series Portuguese with the Pellaton winding system, and the new Regulateur Portuguese. The Portuguese Chrono is probably the most commonly seen variation of this IWC, and also the entry level model.
The one I have here is a Steel case, with Opaline dial and Gold Arabics and hands. The Chronograph hands are blued steel to differentiate them from the ones that tell the time. The movement is a modified Valjoux 7750 which IWC calls the Caliber 79350. The date wheel has been removed, and the seconds subdial moved from the 9 o’clock position to the 6 o’clock position. The movement is also the all gold-colored version of the Valjoux 7750 as you can see below.
The dial is a beautiful peice of work, with Guilloche subdials and finely lacquered writing, and the three-peice case is very well crafted. The bezel is polished stainless steel with a domed Sapphire Crystall, and the case and caseback are mostly Brushed Stainless. The Crocodile strap that came with it is on the thin side, but still quite serviceable. The only thing the watch is missing is a Date, but the dial would likely suffer from the addition of a date window.
A rear shot:
The case is 41mm in diameter, almost the same size as the Breitling Navitimer, and it wears very similarly as well. The style of the watch lends itself to the slightly older consumer as it is less sporty and more classic. Overall, an impeccable peice, with tons of history and style. Wearing the IWC brand tells those around you that you are a watch aficionado, not just a casual wearer.
The new 2008 Breitling Lineup has been released at Baselworld, and here are the new looks for the year. New Super Avenger, new SuperOcean and many others.
Breitling Super Avenger Dial – No more arabics, now just stick markers. This watch is less sporty than it used to be.. not sure if I like it or dislike it, but it just doesn’t seem to suit it.
Breitling Airwolf Dial – No more sunburst, it is now vertical stripes. Nice, but I liked the sunburst too:
Breitling Blackbird Polished – No more brushed case for this one. It retains the faceted bracelet:
Breitling Superocean Dial and Hands – Dial is slightly different, with hands resembling a Omega Broad Arrow:
