CUERVO Y SOBRINOS – Historiador Retrogrado

The Historiador Retrogrado from Cuervo y Sobrinos showcases the brand’s know-how and passion for craftsmanship in a timepiece that embodies the sensitivity and sophistication of 1940’s Havana. The elegant and traditional case recalls one of the brand’s original models, produced between 1940 and 1950. Classic and timeless, the shape and design of this neoclassical watch make it immediately recognizable. Its Clous de Paris guilloché dial is set off by embossed cobalt blue hands, epitomizing the meticulous care that goes into every Cuervo y Sobrinos timepiece. With its day, date and power-reserve functions and traditional time indications, this watch is destined for the sophisticated man, a caballero with natural charm.

Movement
Automatic, CyS 240 calibre, 30 jewels, 42-hour power reserve, rotor with CyS logo

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day and retrograde date

Case
Stainless steel, 40 mm
Double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant to 30 m / 3 ATM

Dial
Silvered, Clous de Paris guilloché decor
Applied CyS logo at 12 o’clock
Cobalt blue hands
Power reserve at 6 o’clock
Day indicator at 9 o’clock and retrograde date at 3 o’clock

Strap
Brown alligator leather with stainless steel buckle

VENTURA – SPARC MGS®

Having developed the first automatic watch with a digital display, Ventura and its founder Pierre Nobs disappeared from the watch scene in 2007. Now, however, they have returned to centre stage with the SPARC MGS®, the first high-end automatic watch with a digital display driven by a micro-generator visible in the upper part of the case. Wrist movements feed an accumulator providing power to the high-performance microprocessor. Multiple functions, like the 100-year perpetual calendar, are now just a fingertip away, thanks to the timepiece’s EasySkroll® operating system. Cutting-edge ergonomics!

Movement
Automatic, barrel-powered micro-generator, 45-day power reserve, tungsten rotor

Functions
EasySkroll® operating system with the following indicators: T1/Date, T2/Date 2, T1 and T2 Alarm, perpetual calendar, chronograph, countdown, choice of display – 12 or 24 hours and 3 date formats

Case
Scratch-proof Durinox® hardened stainless steel, or black PVD-treated, 56.3 x 38 mm
Upper part with rotor and micro-generator; lower part with digital display
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m /3 ATM

Dial
LCD screen, LED backlighting

Strap/Bracelet
Rubber, or Durinox® steel (black PVD-treated or not), with safety folding clasp

I’ve always had a thing for Franck Muller. Perhaps it was earlier days spent listening to my father about how great the Franck Muller watches looked, but never bought one. They are pricey, so I don’t blame him. I tend to wait until an opportunity falls in my lap.. so this is only my second Franck Muller watch. My first Franck Muller was a Casablanca which had scratches on the Curvex Crystal and drove me crazy. I really really liked it aside for the crystal, but I did not want to send it in and have it replaced, so I traded it for another watch.

This Havana Hand-Wind is the same size as my previous Casablanca, but does not have a Bracelet, which the Casablanca did. Unfortunately for me, I realized too late that the Bracelet was what made that watch magical for me.

The Havana dial features a little bit more detailing than the standard exploding numbers Casablanca dials, with applied white gold indexes, sunken subdial and a lume-dot chapter ring. While I appreciate the design, it just doesn’t do it for me the way the exploding numbers dials do. I love the lumed exploding numbers on the plain Casablanca dial the best.. this Havana dial is a bit too sober for my liking.

A crown-side shot of the unique Cintree Curvex case, featuring the signed push-down FM crown. When looking at the side of the Cintree Curvex case, it reveals the unique shape of the case – one that’s not immediately apparent when looking directly from the front. Franck Muller contends that the Cintree Curvex design is an emalgamation of complex mathematics and three triangulated focal points that creates a very pleasing shape to the eye… kind of like the watch head shape version of Apple’s Retina Display. While I like the case shape, it is just like Apple: Less substance, more marketing.

A butt-shot, if you will. The standard engraved Franck Muller back, with the words “Master of Complications” on it – FM’s slogan. You can also see the 18K Gold stamps on the case back, signifying the precious metal case.

The case/box that the Havana comes in is uber-cool. It resembles a Havana Cigar, and even the label can slide off just like a real cigar! One side is rounded and the other flat. A nice little touch to make the watch a bit more deserving of its “Havana” namesake. The Havana came in several different models including the Master Banker and other more complicated versions. This is the base model.

Ah.. the movement shot. Displaying the decorated Franck Muller Caliber Ref 7500 movement, adjusted to 5 positions. The base movement is the Peseux 7001 17 Jewel Handwind movement. It looks nice, but lacks the Platinum Rotor of the automatic models obviously since it is a manual winder.

And finally the wrist shot. The 31x43mm case wears pretty decent for a dress watch, but when mounted on the alligator strap the watch lacks the impact and wrist presence of a bracelet-mounted model. While I think its a great looking watch, I have to say that I would much rather have this size of watch on the stainless steel FM Bracelet and that is the model I will seek out.

Specs:
Case: 18KT White Gold
Size: 31x43mm
Movement: Franck Mullter 7500 (Base Peseux 7001)
Strap: Alligator

GoS Watches releases another new model and is presented in a “Svep” woodwork presentation case hand crafted by Sture Nyberg, a Scandinvian woodcraft artisan. The Stockholm features mother of pearl dial with a cool Damascus Chapter ring, hands and crown. The watch also features a Hand Wound Alpina 592R movement. The piece will be produced in a limited production of 5 pieces.

Specs:

Case: 42mmx10mm
Lug width: 22mm
Glass: Flat sapphire glass
Movement: Swiss manual movement Alpina 592R
Dial: Mother of pearl for 4pcs 1/4-4/4, One piece 1/1 has a dial in blue Lapis Lazuli with small gold pyrites
Hands: Spear shape in hand forged Damascus steel
Index ring, rehaut: Fileworked and polished in hand forged Damascus steel
Crown: 8mm in finegrained Damascus stainless steel
Case finishing: All highgloss polished with Gustafsson & Sjögren logo on case side.
Strap: Handcrafted in Louisiana Alligator.
Presentation box: Individually crafted box in svepask technique.

“Stockholm – a new GoS model

The partnership between the bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren aims to provide truly unique watches with inspiration from the cold north of Scandinavia. GoS proudly presents the new model Stockholm, which has been designed in corporation with the owners of the exclusive watch store Fredmans Ur, the GoS retailer in Stockholm. The production of Stockholm is limited to five watches of which four pieces with a mother of pearl dial and a single piece with a dial in blue Lapis Lazuli. The dials in natural materials highlight the rich details within the handforged Damascus steel. Johan Gustafsson has achieved a very fine grained steel, which pattern is made visible through careful and time consuming hand finishing techniques.

The movement in the Stockholm model is the hand wound Alpina 592R from the 1950s, a NOS movement that has been thoroughly serviced and adjusted before the assembly in the GoS workshop. The Alpina movement beautifully display the characteristics and overall quality of watch movements from that era and has been kept in the original finishing. The deep beveling and the bridge shapes perfectly match the designs and shapes of the Damascus steel parts.

The Stockholm watch is the first model to be delivered in the new GoS presentation box. The boxes are individually crafted by Sture Nyberg, a local woodcraft artisan who is well known for his work which he regularly exhibit. The box is crafted in an ancient technique called “svep” in Swedish and is so specific to the Baltic region that it does not have an English name. The material is thin birch wood that is moisturized and bent over a round template. Birch root is then used to lock the shape with a seam.”

CORUM – Golden Bridge Automatic

When it was presented in 1980, the Golden Bridge baguette movement made a deep impression and opened a new chapter in horology. Thirty years on, this exceptional linear movement still exerts its magic and once more finds itself at centre stage with, for the first time, an automatic version in a larger red or white gold case. And in the spotlight is the new CO 313 calibre, a linear movement demanding an exceptionally high level of horological savoir-faire. The two-sided dial and the case’s four sapphire crystal sides have been carefully structured to highlight this exceptional automatic movement. A limited edition, not surprisingly, with 130 watches available in red gold and 70 in white gold.

Movement
Automatic baguette with linear winding, CO 313 calibre, mechanism with slip-spring and variable-inertia balance, 194 components, 26 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, 40-hour power reserve. Platinum rotor, 18K gold hand-engraved plate and bridges, vertical guilloché decoration

Functions
Hours and minutes

Case
Tonneau, polished and satin-finished 5 N (18K) red gold or 18K white gold, 37.2 x 51.8 mm
4 sapphire crystals, shaped and cut
Sapphire crystal back to reveal movement
Fluted crown at 6 o’clock
Water-resistant to 30 m / 3 ATM

Dial
Black or grey
Applied hourmarkers
Gold skeleton hands

Strap
Black, hand-sewn crocodile leather with red or white gold buckle