New Watch Models


Christopher Ward has released a Chronograph watch that actually has me quite interested. I’ve always found that CW is an interesting company with watches that come in at a very attractive price point, but have never really been particular attracted to the combination of design and components that they have used in the past until now. Christopher Ward is a young company, founded in 2005 and has been creating value-oriented mechanical watches for the past several years.

The C900 features a heavily modified and extended Unitas 6497 base movement that has been updated with a Single pusher chronograph complication and dubbed the JJ02, named after the movement’s designer, Johannes Jahnke.

The C900 Single Pusher Chronograph is not cheap at £2450, but seems to be a great value given the features of the watch. It will be released in a limited edition of 250 pieces, all hand assembled by either Jahnke or his assistant Frank Stelzer. No other information was provided as to size (A CW Forum Member has provided Diameter to be 43mm as seen below in the comments) and water resistance but I would assume fairly large size given the base Unitas movement and water resistance must be decent as well since the gasket system on the crown is highlighted.

From Christopher Ward:

“With its rare complication and bespoke movement, Christopher Ward’s C900 Single Pusher Chronograph is one of the most significant watches to be launched by a British watchmaker this year. The automatic chronograph which can be started, stopped and reset with a single ‘pusher’, or button, represents unrivalled value at £2,450. Available to pre-order from the end of August for mid-October availability, the C900 will allow many watch enthusiasts to buy into a world that they could previously only have dreamt about.

The timeless and understated dial of the C900, with its continuous seconds sub-dial and 30-minute totaliser, was designed by Christopher Ward in Britain, but it is the extensively developed and adapted Unitas 6497 calibre that is the real star of the show. Watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke, based in Christopher Ward’s Swiss atelier, has taken the base movement and turned it into something magnificent.

Right from the start, Jahnke’s aim was to create a calibre which would allow customers to see how every part of the watch functioned, through a wide exhibition back. The first step in achieving his vision was to ensure that the main plate and all the connections fitted the base module like a glove. Jahnke then set about introducing a sliding gear and reworking the bridges, the winding mechanism and the centre and second wheels, as well as the swan-neck adjustment system.

To make so many major mechanical and aesthetic improvements required a mastery of traditional watchmaking skills – which have sadly become increasingly rare. Even among many of the leading luxury watch brands, mass-produced movements have become the accepted standard.

To help him create the new Single Pusher, Jahnke approached Jean Fillon who has worked with chronograph movements ever since the 1940s. Despite an age gap of nearly 60 years the two men struck up a close friendship. Jahnke, affectionately refers to Fillon as ‘opi’, or ‘grandpa’, while the older watchmaker delights in how ‘JJ’ has drawn on his traditional skills to create such an affordable and contemporary chronograph.

For anyone interested in how a purely mechanical device can measure fractions of a second while also keeping time accurately for months on end, the reverse of the C900 provides one of the finest views in the watch world. The C900’s exhibition back reveals a masterpiece of clarity and simplicity. Jahnke’s JJO2 calibre is supremely elegant, clean and, above all, ‘understandable’. It is even possible to see how the sliding gear, clutch and brake allows the chronograph to be controlled by a single pusher, set within the crown.

‘The last chronographs I made cost £70,000,’ says Jahnke, ‘and most of them are probably locked up in a safe somewhere. I have only ever seen one being worn. I’d like more people to get pleasure from my work and understand what I do. Christopher Ward has given me the opportunity to do that. The C900 is a watch which I am hugely proud of, which is also affordable enough to be worn, used and appreciated by a much wider range of customers.’

It is extremely rare for even the most expensive watches to be put together by just one man but that is exactly how each of the 250 limited edition C900s are being assembled – either by Jahnke or his assistant, Frank Stelzer. More than 100 separate jobs and many more parts go into making every watch, and just fitting the hairspring can take 40 minutes – making the price of the C900 all the more remarkable.

Aside from the movement, a vast amount of thought, ingenuity and skill has gone into creating other parts of the C900. For example, the bespoke crown has been designed from scratch in order to overcome the challenge of incorporating the central axis as well as four ‘O’ rings, which allow the pusher to be depressed while still ensuring the watch remains waterproof.

‘The C900 brings the world of complications and the upper end of watchmaking within reach of more people than ever before,’ says Chris Ward. ‘One day we may produce even more complicated watches but the C900 will always be very special for me. Johannes has accomplished something extraordinary.’”

Vulcain recently released a sweet re-issue of an old watch from the 50’s, with an updated 42mm case diameter. This watch is the Vulcain 50s Presidents Chronograph. It features a heritage dial, and indeed it really looks like a blast from the past.

This new model from Vulcain is available in Stainless Steel as well as 18K Rose Gold. Both models feature Rose Gold hands, which I think pair up really nicely with the black, antique lumed dial. I am such a sucker for re-issued vintage style watches and Vulcain is a brand of watch I have been considering for a very long time now.

This is truly an outstanding piece that I would love to get my hands on to see in person. I really want one!

CASE: steel 316L or 18K Rose Gold
Diameter 42.00 mm – Length 50.00 mm
Height 13.75 mm
CRYSTAL: sapphire front and back
WATER-RESISTANCE: 50 meters/160 feets
CALIBRE VULCAIN V-57: 13 1/4-lignes mechanical automatic single-pusher type chronograph movement, 25 rubies, 105 components, lift angle 50°
FUNCTIONS: hour, minute, seconds counters at 9 o’clock, date window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph, 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
FREQUENCY: 28’800 vibrations per hour
POWER RESERVE: 42 hours
DECORATION: Côtes de Genève motifs, blued screws
MOVEMENT COATING: rhodium

I’m a fan of Tourby watches, even though I’ve never owned one. They are well made watches and I think the understated designs are very sensible and well thought out. They use a lot of classic style in their designes especially with their pilot watches. This new model is the Lawless diver, designed in collaboration with Brendan Lawless, an Australian Dive Watch enthusiast.

This new Lawless Diver is pretty incredible looking. I’d be quite interested in one myself, but the €925 price is scaring me a bit (This is international price, with VAT is €1099). Given that this is a very boutique watch company, you can be sure that the watch will plummet in value once its on your wrist. While that’s not a problem if you love your watches and never sell them necessarily, its can still be a deterrent to purchase.

At 45.5mm, its a beast of a watch, and has gigantic fat lugs to boot. The stainless steel case features 500m water resistance and a beautiful engraved caseback. The movement is the robust ETA 2824-2 Swiss movement. Real nice looking diver here. The Lawless is also available in a PVD case version.

Beautiful Perrelet Turbine model, to commemorate this year of the dragon. Perrelet has been doing well with their Turbine line of watches, and has released a very cool Limited edition featuring a Dragon carved from hand-colored Polynesian Mother-of-Pearl and then encrusted onto a solid white mother-of-pearl dial. The images of the dragon is obscured by the turbine, but when the turbine is spinning, the dragon is visible in its entirity.

The watch measures 44mm in diameter and 13mm in thickness. And features a black DLC coated steel case with sapphire crystals. Movement is the Perrelet exclusive P-331 Double Rotor movement. An incredible watch. I would love to see the dragon without the rotor obscuring, but could not find any photos!

Blacksand burst onto the watch scene last year at Baselworld 2011 creating some very impressive looking timepieces. Their new watch, the Stratographe, features their first completely in-house designed movement, the Calibre 2002. The watch features a monopusher chronograph, and some beautiful looking parts.

Specs:
Single-pusher chronograph with crown-activated start/stop/reset functions
Blacksand column wheel and index assembly Central 60-second chronograph hand – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Small seconds at 9 o’clock – hand-wound – 50-hour power reserve – 28,800 vph – Chamfered mainplate and bridges, black satin-brushed, sandblasted and circular-grained decoration Chamfered straight-grained steel parts. Polished screws.
Case 46mm in Titanium and Ceramic or Gold.

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