Sun 1 Feb 2009
The Sub-$500 Mechanical Watch – Is it any good?
Posted by The Breitling Source under Budget Watches , General Posts , Watch Reviews[21] Comments
I went on a bit of an affordable watch buying spree and picked up several watches in the Sub-$1000 category. Three of these watches clocked in under $500, and it gave me the inspiration for an article because I realized that there is definately a niche that these affordable watches fill. I have had my share of bargain mechanicals liks Trias in the past, and was disappointed. This new breed of watch is quite different from the last, however. I’ll be releasing video reviews for some of these watches as well in the future. The prices I am going by are the available online prices for these watches new, not the MSRP or the used prices. I’ll start from lowest to highest priced.
1. Alpha Radiomir Automatic – $65US
The first watch is an Alpha Radiomir with a Japanese Miyota movement, probably the best movement that Alpha uses, as most of their other watches use fairly unreliable Chinese movements with questionable accuracy. Their cases on the other hand are very well made, and a steal given the ridiculously low prices. This is the perfect mechanical watch if your budget is below $100.
2. Ticino Stealth Military Pilot Watch – $199US
The Ticino is a nice budget watch with a cool Pilot look without the price tag associated with it like most 47mm pilots like the Steinhart/Debaufre Nav B-Uhr, or even more so the IWC Big Pilot. The Ticino is also available in this cool stealthy black case with a completely sterile dial. Very nice touch. The watch is completely Chinese made, but good value, especially if this is all you can afford. Manual winding Unitas clone movement in this one.
3. Pyrolume Mechanical Pilot – $400US
Pyrolume is an interesting brand out of the US here, hand assembled in a one-man shop. The watches are mostly constructed out of Chinese-made parts, except for the dials which are CNC machined in-house by the watchmaker. The mechanical movements are either Chinese Unitas Clones or Japanese Miyota automatics mostly, very similar to the $65 Alpha Watch. The watches have very unique and memorable dials of the watchmaker’s own designs, and are the primary reason for buying these watches. The accuracy on mine is not very good. For a primarily Chinese-made product, it is pricey, but his dials are one-of-a-kind. Currently available only through eBay.
4. Swiss Army Ambassador Day-Date – $450US
Victorinox Swiss Army is probably one of the most underrated brands of watches I have ever seen. Their watches are a bit more mass-market, and likely brushed aside by WIS, but the value is undeniable. Retail price on this Ambassador is around $750, but it can usually be picked up online for around $400-475US new. This is a completely swiss made watch, with a decorated rotor, sapphire crystals front and back! And not to mention the dial is quite stunning. Pricing is very much inline with Hamilton watches. Victorinox makes a very good watch for the money.
5. Wilson Watch Works Unitas Navigator – $460US
Wilson watch works is one of my favourite places to pick up a $500 watch. His watches are probably the priciest of the bunch, but justifiably so. The cases are sourced from Germany, as are the dials, sapphire crystals, Double AR coating on the front. Movement is Swiss made Unitas, and timed and regulated. Compared with watches at several hundred more. At this price competition is stiff, but the Wilson Stands out especially if you like the pilot style watch. Currently available only through eBay.
Overall, all these watches offer something unique for the pricepoint, and will appeal to different people. The key thing is to remember that there are lots of great choices out there for any budget, and to have fun when you are collecting!
February 2nd, 2009 at 12:34 pm
A Victorinox was my first non-expendable watch. It stood up to rough treatment for a couple years before I got into Breitlings.
February 3rd, 2009 at 12:08 am
From my personal experience, I have used many types of watches, both expensive and cheap and even tried replica watches. Surprising results… my expensive Oris gave so many problems within the first 8 months that I had to sold it off. A cheap replica costing to more than $70.00USD (automatic watch ) with retro date and month lasted for 3 years now, and is still ticking. My Victorinox that costs around $180USD has lasted for 5 years now..
This shows that brand and price hardly matter for reliability.. Only drawback of replica watches as I noticed is that their glass reflects a lot of light.. and the metal finishing isn’t brushed.. But in keeping accurate time, it’s a lot more accurate and better than an expensive Oris.
February 6th, 2009 at 11:32 am
Speaking of inexpensive watches….I just came across a brand called Lum-Tec. You guys know anything about them? Are they good.
http://www.lum-tec.com
Thanks.
February 6th, 2009 at 11:57 am
Lum-Tec is a new brand started by Ray Knight sometimes in 2008. Ray Knight is famous for his Panerai Hommage watches and other creations. He started a watch company called Lum-Tec. The Combat B1 is basically the same as the Wilson Watch Works non-Swiss movement watches that sell for $329, but with Black PVD coating. The cases and dials come from the same manufacturer, but cost more at $595. They are a good value for a branded watch, but forgo the branding, and you can save yourself a few hundred with WWW. Part of the reason for the increased price aside from branding are the fact that the cases and dials are exclusive to Lum-Tec.
February 6th, 2009 at 1:12 pm
Thanks Breitling Source. What is that link for Wilson??? Looks like it was cut-off in your comment.
-John
February 6th, 2009 at 1:17 pm
Oh.. It wasn’t.. I just called Wilson Watch Works by it’s initials, and i guess the blog thought it was a web address.
Go to my latest blog post to see a complete review with a link to his ebay store:
http://blog.breitlingsource.com/2009/02/04/wilson-watch-works-navigator-review/
February 6th, 2009 at 1:32 pm
Thanks. So, when buying these brands, how can you determine if you’re getting a good deal or getting ripped off. I really like the look of some of the Lum-Tec and they’re between $300 and $400. Is that a fair price?
February 6th, 2009 at 1:38 pm
If you like the watch and don’t mind spending the money, it is a fair price. If you were happy before someone told you you got ripped off, then you are caring too much about what someone else thinks 😉
February 6th, 2009 at 1:40 pm
Funny!!! But I meant fair price for the quality of components. Thanks.
February 9th, 2009 at 1:52 pm
What about Christopher Ward watches? Read a review of them the other day. Any opinion on your part? Thanks.
February 9th, 2009 at 2:18 pm
I’ve read a bit about them too.. They seem to have a typical low-advertising model like Gevril, Zeno, Debaufre, etc.. but their watches are a bit more generic than the ones I’ve reviewed so they didn’t really appeal to me. I seem to recall the prices were around the $300 price range, and I had read quite a bit on their forum a couple years ago.. and they do offer good value. Swiss made, automatic movements, decorated, sapphire crystals… for $300 or so is good. But their watches remind me of Gevril… the designs do not leave a lasting impression on me, and tend towards the smaller side.
February 9th, 2009 at 2:22 pm
Thanks. Besides my Breitling Super Ocean and a couple of Swiss Army and Timex…I have nothing else. Looking to pick up something in the under $500.00 range. Any other suggestions?
February 9th, 2009 at 2:40 pm
In the sub $500 range, I would suggest possibly Hamilton, Oris or Fortis. Hamiltons should definately be available in that price range. You can also check Baume et Mercier and Tissot for some nice automatic peices in the sub $500 range.
February 9th, 2009 at 2:44 pm
Thank you. I’ll take a look. And thanks for a great article.
February 12th, 2009 at 3:12 pm
I like the look and price of that Radiomir. Simple but masculine.
In my opinion, Russian mechanicals offer the best value in the under $200 or even under $100 range, especially Vostok and Vostok-Europe. Lots of info on Russian mechanical watches here:
http://www.russianwatchguide.com
The Russian movements are good. Not Swiss-grade, but good.
February 12th, 2009 at 5:15 pm
I’ve been eyeing some of the Russian stuff, but at the price it seems like there is a lot of Swiss stuff available which is why I have not tried it yet… they certainly do look interesting though. I’ve been thinking about a Poljot Pilot watch with the swiss movement… but that’s a swiss movement.
February 17th, 2009 at 12:33 am
Take a look at Glycine.
I have an Incursore Automatic 44mm for around USD 380…
http://www.glycine.ch/e/collection/detail.e.jsp?ID_Group=100007&ID_Display=10001L
Comes in a nice big wooden presentation box, 22mm brown leather strap AND a black leather strap, nifty strap changing tool….
Swiss movement, transparent caseback, cool lumes…
i thought it was a steal….
February 17th, 2009 at 1:03 am
I know Glycine, I have a Glycine Combat 4 and its a nice watch. As far as I can tell, however, online pricing for most Glycine is over $500. Is $380 from an online dealer? The Combat 4 and Incursores all sell for around $600 where I looked.
February 17th, 2009 at 2:00 am
From local AD!
February 24th, 2009 at 7:38 am
That Ticino looks nice! Archimede also make inexpensive watches based on the well known ETA movements. Very nicely finished too.
June 8th, 2010 at 8:13 pm
Have you (Breitling Source) followed up on your interest in Poljot models? There are so very many–dozens, in every range–from which to choose. One problem that I’ve had is that, when I’ve chosen a model, I’ve invariably delayed for a few months, after which time the chosen model has been replaced by something different.
Also–thank you for the mention of the Wilson Watch Works. That’s a watch-maker with an interesting business model. I truly hope that he finds great success.