The Breitling Watch Blog

RSW – Outland

The Outland saga continues with a new, round model, available in a disk version, like the original, or a chronograph version. Far off the beaten track, its ‘Brutalist’ design pays homage to futurism and to raw geometrical architecture, just like the super computers or the first electronic musical instruments. Available in stainless steel or black PVD steel, this collection is quintessentially masculine, serious yet surprising, mature yet childish.The chronograph version is available in different dial variations, some in a limited edition. As for the disc version, instead of hands indicating the time, it is time itself that moves in relation to a stationary monolithic reference point. The hour, minute and seconds hands are replaced by three disks that rotate to the rhythm of the movement.

Movement
Automatic (disk version), Valjoux 7750 calibre (chronograph version)

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds (disk version), date and chronograph (chronograph version)

Case
Round, 316L stainless steel or black PVD steel
Gem set (according to version)
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 100 m / 10 ATM

Dial
Black
Disk version: hours, minutes and seconds indicated by disks
Chronograph version: hourmarkers, hands and counters coated with orange Superluminova
Hour, minute and small seconds counters at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock respectively
Date window at 3 o’clock

Strap
Black rubber with folding clasp

CUERVO Y SOBRINOS – Historiador Retrogrado

The Historiador Retrogrado from Cuervo y Sobrinos showcases the brand’s know-how and passion for craftsmanship in a timepiece that embodies the sensitivity and sophistication of 1940’s Havana. The elegant and traditional case recalls one of the brand’s original models, produced between 1940 and 1950. Classic and timeless, the shape and design of this neoclassical watch make it immediately recognizable. Its Clous de Paris guilloché dial is set off by embossed cobalt blue hands, epitomizing the meticulous care that goes into every Cuervo y Sobrinos timepiece. With its day, date and power-reserve functions and traditional time indications, this watch is destined for the sophisticated man, a caballero with natural charm.

Movement
Automatic, CyS 240 calibre, 30 jewels, 42-hour power reserve, rotor with CyS logo

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day and retrograde date

Case
Stainless steel, 40 mm
Double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant to 30 m / 3 ATM

Dial
Silvered, Clous de Paris guilloché decor
Applied CyS logo at 12 o’clock
Cobalt blue hands
Power reserve at 6 o’clock
Day indicator at 9 o’clock and retrograde date at 3 o’clock

Strap
Brown alligator leather with stainless steel buckle

VENTURA – SPARC MGS®

Having developed the first automatic watch with a digital display, Ventura and its founder Pierre Nobs disappeared from the watch scene in 2007. Now, however, they have returned to centre stage with the SPARC MGS®, the first high-end automatic watch with a digital display driven by a micro-generator visible in the upper part of the case. Wrist movements feed an accumulator providing power to the high-performance microprocessor. Multiple functions, like the 100-year perpetual calendar, are now just a fingertip away, thanks to the timepiece’s EasySkroll® operating system. Cutting-edge ergonomics!

Movement
Automatic, barrel-powered micro-generator, 45-day power reserve, tungsten rotor

Functions
EasySkroll® operating system with the following indicators: T1/Date, T2/Date 2, T1 and T2 Alarm, perpetual calendar, chronograph, countdown, choice of display – 12 or 24 hours and 3 date formats

Case
Scratch-proof Durinox® hardened stainless steel, or black PVD-treated, 56.3 x 38 mm
Upper part with rotor and micro-generator; lower part with digital display
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m /3 ATM

Dial
LCD screen, LED backlighting

Strap/Bracelet
Rubber, or Durinox® steel (black PVD-treated or not), with safety folding clasp

Doxa’s, love ’em or hate ’em, they are an icon when it comes to Diver watches. The 600T-Graph is a limited edition model (as all Doxas are) of usually 250 per year per style, and each year the dial colors and configurations change so they are always unique. There is a screwed-in plaque that indications the year of the model, and in this case the model year is “2005”.

This is the Sharkhunter model of the 2005 600T, and features a black dial with a 3-register chronograph that has both orange and white highlights on the subdials. In the background you can see the heavy-duty aluminum tube that all Doxa watches ship in. The movement is a high-grade ETA 2894 base. Lume is excellent on the 600T and easy to read in little to no-light situations.

The case diameter measures 44.70mm, and features a solid numbered caseback and sapphire crystal. The unique Decompression Dive Table bezel is a bit smaller in diameter than the main part of the case, giving the watch a somewhat smaller appearance than the 44.70mm case diameter would suggest.

A side shot showing off the inlaid plaque with the year of issue. The 600T-Graph is the thickest of all the current Doxa models, and has a much chunkier wrist presence than its brothers. I personally like the extra thickness and the matching beads of rice bracelet is very comfortable and compatible with all the Doxa models. The clasp on the bracelet is a standard fliplock style that is common to all Doxa as well as many other manufacturer bracelets. Adjustments to the bracelet are via push pins.

Finally the wrist shot! On my 6.75″ wrist, the Doxa wears quite comfortably, and does not appear overly large. The watch does lean towards top-heavy when worn on the wrist so tends to look better when the bracelet is worn tighter rather than looser. Pushers and crown are all screw-in adding to the reliability of water resistance. While the Doxa style isn’t for everyone, it does have an original style with tons of heritage behind it. The Doxa watch is for the Clive Cussler fan as well as the man who wants a watch that not everyone has.

I’ve always had a thing for Franck Muller. Perhaps it was earlier days spent listening to my father about how great the Franck Muller watches looked, but never bought one. They are pricey, so I don’t blame him. I tend to wait until an opportunity falls in my lap.. so this is only my second Franck Muller watch. My first Franck Muller was a Casablanca which had scratches on the Curvex Crystal and drove me crazy. I really really liked it aside for the crystal, but I did not want to send it in and have it replaced, so I traded it for another watch.

This Havana Hand-Wind is the same size as my previous Casablanca, but does not have a Bracelet, which the Casablanca did. Unfortunately for me, I realized too late that the Bracelet was what made that watch magical for me.

The Havana dial features a little bit more detailing than the standard exploding numbers Casablanca dials, with applied white gold indexes, sunken subdial and a lume-dot chapter ring. While I appreciate the design, it just doesn’t do it for me the way the exploding numbers dials do. I love the lumed exploding numbers on the plain Casablanca dial the best.. this Havana dial is a bit too sober for my liking.

A crown-side shot of the unique Cintree Curvex case, featuring the signed push-down FM crown. When looking at the side of the Cintree Curvex case, it reveals the unique shape of the case – one that’s not immediately apparent when looking directly from the front. Franck Muller contends that the Cintree Curvex design is an emalgamation of complex mathematics and three triangulated focal points that creates a very pleasing shape to the eye… kind of like the watch head shape version of Apple’s Retina Display. While I like the case shape, it is just like Apple: Less substance, more marketing.

A butt-shot, if you will. The standard engraved Franck Muller back, with the words “Master of Complications” on it – FM’s slogan. You can also see the 18K Gold stamps on the case back, signifying the precious metal case.

The case/box that the Havana comes in is uber-cool. It resembles a Havana Cigar, and even the label can slide off just like a real cigar! One side is rounded and the other flat. A nice little touch to make the watch a bit more deserving of its “Havana” namesake. The Havana came in several different models including the Master Banker and other more complicated versions. This is the base model.

Ah.. the movement shot. Displaying the decorated Franck Muller Caliber Ref 7500 movement, adjusted to 5 positions. The base movement is the Peseux 7001 17 Jewel Handwind movement. It looks nice, but lacks the Platinum Rotor of the automatic models obviously since it is a manual winder.

And finally the wrist shot. The 31x43mm case wears pretty decent for a dress watch, but when mounted on the alligator strap the watch lacks the impact and wrist presence of a bracelet-mounted model. While I think its a great looking watch, I have to say that I would much rather have this size of watch on the stainless steel FM Bracelet and that is the model I will seek out.

Specs:
Case: 18KT White Gold
Size: 31x43mm
Movement: Franck Mullter 7500 (Base Peseux 7001)
Strap: Alligator