When these Retrowerk steampunk watches came out a few years back, I blogged about them and how funky the Steampunk designs were a bit off the wall for me. Well, I ended up finding one for a good deal so I bought it! I never thought I would have ended up buying one of these, but I did.

And there she is, in all her antiqued, worn brass finish. The watch is actually considerably better made than I thought it would be, especially for the kind of money these go for these days. I am seeing them being liquidated for around $500 for the automatic models, which is a significant step down from their original $1200 MSRP. At $1200, its a bit of a stretch, however.

There’s a big, juicy piston driven crown protector, which reminds me a little of the Espresso machine style levers that Graham is so fond of with their Chronofighters. The Graham Chronofighter levers are much more refined, however. This is a bit cruder, like the U-Boat canteen covers.

I have a gripe about the way this was designed, however, and that’s because it is so difficult to hand-wind the crown due to the location of the protector when it is unscrewed. I can only manage about 1/4 turns when handwinding, and its a bit frustrating!

The piston is hollow on one side, and has a spring inside that pushes it to an open position when the crown protector is removed. As you can see, there is a lot of attention to detail in the finishing and imprinting on the case to create the steampunk style.

The caseback is not brass-finished like the rest of the case, but rather a bead blasted stainless steel, but is very well finished nonetheless. They didn’t cheap out on the case back, and in fact has each one individually serial numbered – a nice touch. This one is numbered 36. I wonder how many they made? Since there are three digits, probably not more than 999 of each model. That’s a pretty scarce production run – maybe they’ll be worth something in the future!

There’s the headshot. The arabic numbers are lumed, and the domed crystal is sapphire. When these were first announced, they were going to have mineral crystal, but it seems they got upgraded. I think they did a fantastic job with the brass finishing on the steel case, but while I like brass, I’m not sure if I like the steampunk. I’ll probably keep this watch for a little while, but I don’t know if it will be a long term keeper. I’ve got it mounted on a vintage ammo NuboStrap right now, and it looks great on there.

The one place on this German made watch where I felt they skimped a bit on the quality is the dial. The Lume isn’t the brightest, and the Retrowerk Logo is kind of shiny and rounded on the edges.. not as clean and crisp as I would prefer and gives it a bit of a cheaper look to it.. but the case details are fantastic and it has a great worn look to it.

Here’s a wristshot of the 46mm watch, which wears quite decently for such a large watch. The smaller face/crystal attributes to the slightly more digestable wrist presence. Most larger crystal 46mm watches like the Navitimer World have much larger wrist presence, and they don’t even have a gigantic brass piston on the case!

At any rate, really a novelty watch for the steampunk enthusiast that appreciates quality Swiss and German engineering. The watch is constructed well and keeps good time. It wears on the wrist well and really accomplishes what it sets out to do in my opinion. Is this watch for everyone? Certainly not, but I think it will definately be right for some people.

Breitling for Bentley has released a new Limited Edition Bentley GMT model dubbed the “V8”. This is to commemorate the new Bentley Continental GT V8, a smaller 4.0L version of their V12 powerhouse. Kind of interesting seeing as the original Breitling for Bentley GT watch to match the V12 GT is actually smaller than the GMT V8. At any rate, it is a nice limited edition of 250 pieces, and features a unique red inner bezel.

Specs are the mostly same as the regular GMT:
Model: Breitling for Bentley GMT V8
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Breitling 47B
Power Reserve: 48 Hours
Water Resistance: 100m
Bezel: Bidirectional
Crown: Screwdown
Crystal: Sapphire
Diameter: 49mm

I was contacted by Ilan, the founder and owner of Egard watches with some follow-up information on the Egard Shade and information on release date and pricing information. He told me that pricing for the Shade will be $620US on Leather, and $670US on bracelet and will be available only directly from Egard through their website, which hopefully will be launched soon! Some minor unexpected delays have pushed the release date back a little bit, but it should be out soon.

Current production on the Shade is only 100 pieces, but it is not a limited edition as I understand it. Ilan mentioned that there will be two other models released shortly, one of which will be a limited edition. We should be recieving review copies of this watch to write about so that will be very cool. I look forward to seeing what them!

Company Profile:

“Created as a tribute to designer Ilan Srulovicz’s father , Egard watches have been highly influenced by his father’s work in engineering. The attempt to dig under the surface and find the inner workings of the mechanics of things played a large role in the creation of the watches.

Egard watches are meant to be felt as much as they are meant to be worn. Designer Ilan Srulovicz began his process by visiting various parts of the world and drawing from the architecture and environment. Having a background in the field himself he found that watches today lacked a certain tangibility and identity. The intention was to create a line that allowed true self expression while maintain the highest level of quality.

Headquartered in Los Angeles, Egard watches are a statement of self expression while maintaining the components of a luxury watch. Egard watches do not know the term compromise.

“Though we ask not to be bound nor gripped by the hand of time we seek to measure it. Not so that we may control it or defeat it but rather so that we may expose ourselves to it’s infinite scale.” Ilan Srulovicz”

Egard Watches has officially launched their first model, the Shade. I don’t have too much info yet, besides what the specs have been provided. I love the look of the layered dial, but without some information on the location of manufacture of the dial components it will be difficult to guess how well put together the dial is. Hopefully it is as impressive as it appears it might be. Also, I do not have pricing yet:

43mm case
15.7mm case thickness
22mm lug width
316L stainless steel case (2 versions one IP/PVD black)
Miyota 8n24 skeletonized movement (2 versions, 1 gold plated)
lightly domed sapphire crystal top with AR coating
Sapphire crystal bottom AR coating
water resistant to 20atm / 660 feet
Thick leather strap with butterfly buckle
comes with spare brown leather tang strap

A new Chronograph from Ocean7, Mitch Feig’s Dive Watch company – is in fact a Pilot Watch! I remember the first Ocean7 Chronograph I bought, Swiss Made using the Valjoux 7750 movement costed $1800. This new Pilot uses the same basic parts and even comes DLC coated and only runs $799! This certainly is a very attractive price point for buyers as it puts an automatic Swiss Made chronograph well below $1000. From what I’ve seen from Ocean7 in the past as far as quality is concerned, this should be a very solid buy.

From Ocean7: “The OCEAN7 Watch Company has released one of the most affordable handmade Swiss ever made available on the market: the Pilot Chronograph. The Pilot Chronograph features a Swiss ETA 7750 chronograph movement and many desirable features:

Sandblasted, DLC coated case
Swiss ETA 7750 Chronograph Movement
44 mm diameter
15 mm height
Swiss Orange Super Luminova
Domed Sapphire Crystal
PU Rubber Sport Strap with Black, PVD Coated Buckle
Water Resistance – 5atm
22mm Lug Spacing”

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