The Breitling Watch Blog

I never really liked the Radiomir style watches from Panerai, even though I tried them on many many times. It wasn’t until one day I picked up a Risti-Scorned RXW MM25 Radiomir watch from a local fellow that it grew on me and I just had to buy this Panerai 183 when a guy I knew was selling it. In addition to the OEM strap, it came with a Kaktus strap which is what its shown on.

The Panerai Black Seal 183 is the model one up from the Base 210 Radiomir and features a small seconds at 9 o’clock and has the words “Black Seal” printed on the dial. It features a curved Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback as well as a great black sandwich dial that glows like a torch. The PAM183 is a current model that has been in production since 2004.

The movement is an OP XI, based on the Unitas 6497/2 which is heavily modified by Panerai with custom bridges and other fanciness. This one is Chronometer certified, unlike the 210, which does not since it doesn’t have a second hand. With the new 3000 series movements from Panerai, this may soon be the end of these models.

The signed Panerai crown is nicely made, and is a screwdown crown – uncommon for handwind watches. But then Panerai watches are anything but common. The Crown on the 183 is easy to wind, and looks great with the blasted background behind the polished Officine Panerai logo. The lugs are inserted into the case and held in by screws. There are tiny rubber o-rings in the screws and lugs to prevent water from getting into the lug hole and rusting it from the inside out. Smart.

While its not too difficult to change straps on the 183, its nowhere near as easy to do as it is on a Luminor case, especially with the quick release.

And finally, the wrist shot. The 45mm Radiomir case is perfect for a semi-casual vintage style watch, especially when mounted on an aftermarket strap like this Kaktus strap shown. When mounted on an OEM strap, the watch dressed up quite a bit. The smaller 42mm Radiomirs are much more dressy than the 45mm 183 here, and would likely be better candidates if that was what you were looking for. The Panerai PAM183 that I snagged is a good in-between watch that wears especially well with jeans and a t-shirt in my opinion – the only thing I sometimes miss is the date function

With SIHH 2011 coming, new Panerai models are starting to poke their heads out of the woodwork. While we can expect a few new watches to use the new P.3000 Caliber Movement from Panerai, the latest to be announced do not use the new series of movements from Panerai. There is speculation that the new P.3000 movements are designed to replace their unitas powered watches.

Panerai PAM 386
New Composite case Panerai 386, looks outstanding. This one is a Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Composite, which means it is a 3 Day Automatic caliber P.9000, featuring date and small seconds. The Composite case is a synthetic ceramic that is created using an electro-chemical process that transforms aluminum into this material. Very Cool stuff.

There are also a huge multitude of individual boutique editions being released in various numbers of anywhere from 100 to 200 pieces from Paris, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Taipei and some others I believe, with Reference numbers in the 400’s. Here are some photos:

Been rocking my PAM320 since I picked it up a month or two ago and it has been really hitting the spot! I have never been quite this satisfied with any Panerai I’ve owned. While I tend to feel like the manual winding models are more faithful to the heritage of the brand, I do find the automatic movement very convenient. The super-domed sapphire crystal models with the manual winding 7 day movements would be even better I think.

There’s my PAM320 shown mounted on a beautiful Dangerous9 strap, the first aftermarket strap I put on this watch. Beautiful 1950’s style case with the slightly curved crystal and sandwich dial. The case is so well made and the edges are finished perfectly. I am familiar with the difficulties of finishing cases, and the 1950’s case is not an easy case to manufacture and finish well.

The device protecting the crown has the “REG TM” marking on it, which is a feature I really like. This marking only appears on 1950 style cases. In the above shot you can see the crisp lines of the case, which are very impressive when you see it in person.

Here’s a shot of the dial mounted on a black Strapluxe strap. The 320 features 12-hr GMT hand, small seconds, date, power reserve indicator on the back, and seconds reset. Whenever the crown is pulled out all the way, the second hand resets to 0, which is a pretty cool feature. The sandwich dial glows like a torch.. I love how it glows when I get to the underground parking on my way to work in the morning.

And here’s the requisite exhibition back shot of the Panerai P.9001 Movement. The fantastic in-house movements from Panerai wouldn’t be the same without a display back. While they are not necessarily the prettiest movements, I love the large bridge plates, as they remind me of the 3/4 plate style watches popular with German manufacture. The way Panerai finishes their movements has a functional and simplistic beauty to them.

And the last shot here, with my PAM90 before I sold it. I have to admit that since selling the 90, I have not missed it because the 320 more than fills any void left by the 90. It has everything the PAM90 had and more. I much prefer the rear power reserve indicator as the cleaner dial is better looking to me. Combine the nearly perfect movement (in terms or features) and the amazing case work on this model and the perfect size, this is definately the perfect Panerai for me in this price range.

I recently purchased a Panerai Luminor GMT PAM 320, with the 12hr GMT hand, Seconds Reset and 3 Days in-house Caliber P.9001 movement. This watch is pretty much exactly what I was looking for, so my PAM 90 is now on the block. I realized I never really reviewed my PAM90, or talked about it on here. Now that its going to be sold, I should probably snap some photos and put them up here before its gone.

The PAM 90 has the standard modern 44mm Luminor case, with the straight sides, a bit less complicated than the 1950’s style cases that most of Panerai’s newer models have. I was really wanting one of the 1950’s cases, so I picked up the PAM320. The PAM90 is still a fantastic watch, and one of my favourite PAMs.

Most of these photos are taken with the watch in the box, since I took these photos to sell the watch! While I want to sell it, I don’t think I’d be heartbroken if I ended up keeping it either! The watch comes with the usual Screwdriver and Strap change tool. This one is a J series, from 2008. It does have the quick change strap bars, not the screw-in kind, which are much less desireable in my opinion. These spring loaded lugs are the best.

As with most polished PAM’s, the crown protector is polished, but the lever is brushed. I’m not sure why they do it this way, but that’s the way they do it. As this is a newer model, the lever has the little wheel on it as well. All nice little refinements that Panerai has worked into the models.

Funny that I’ve had this watch for two years and still never got around to writing up about it. I really enjoyed my two years with the PAM90, but I am even more happy with my 320, and expect to enjoy the 320 for another couple of years when I’m sure another Panerai will probably draw my attention. If you are not hung up about getting an in-house caliber from Panerai, the PAM90 is a fantastic choice with the offset power reserve indicator and sub-seconds.

The new Panerai Luminor Marina PAM366 appeals to their Chinese market with the Chinese Character “Fu” printed on the dial at 6 o’clock. The watch features the tried and true Panerai OP II Movement, and will be limited to 1500 pieces. The watch will retail for $4400US.

Only time will tell, but it will be interesting to see how well received this watch is by the Chinese buying public. With such a small run of 1500 pieces, it shouldn’t be difficult to sell, however.

While I can appreciate the watch, I think they should have made it with a sandwich dial instead. Kudos to Panerai for taking this step, however.