November 2012


Finally got a chance to review one of my mini-grails that I picked up a few months back: The Cartier Calibre. I’ve owned several Cartiers in the past, but none of them really hit the spot for me. I had considered picking up a Roadster Chronograph, until the prices starting going up. Then came the Cartier Calibre, introduced at SIHH 2011. I simply had to have it!

The beautiful large aperture sapphire crystal covered dial is looks larger than one might presume from initially looking at it. The case measures 42mm in diameter, and features a cool screwed on crown guard with a larger blue cabochon inlaid in it. The watch has a small seconds at 6 o’clock, and an extra-large date window at 3 o’clock.

The dial has luminumous square-dots at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock as well as luminous hands. The dial is relatively “flat” in design, with only slight grooves and raised indices. The bezel is an inverted shape angling inwards towards the dial, giving the watch a saucer-like shape on top and the majority of the stainless steel surfaces are brushed.

A good shot of the crown guard and cabochon, as well as the screwed-in bracelet and lug holders. Notice the machining detail on the crown guard and the superb finishing quality. The bracelet is similar to an oyster bracelet with recessed middle links and also ressembled the Roadster bracelet, but with a wider middle link. It is extremely comfortable and features a double butterfly clasp with no lock.

The new Cartier 1904-PS MC Movement featured in the Cartier Caliber is a completely in-house movement, and finished quite well featuring 27 Jewels. Nothing too fancy but great Geneva Striping in very cleanly designed bridges. The ball-bearing mounted Rotor is signed very simply and lends to the understated class of the watch. Notice the very flat case back with sharply down-turned lugs.

And finally the a good wrist shot of the 42mm diameter watch on my 6.75″ wrist. The watch to me wears much larger than 42mm, and seems to feel like a 44mm watch. It wears very flat to the wrist due to the case shape and the lug shape, which reduces the amount of perceived bulk on the wrist. While being the size of a sport watch and wearing closer to those types of dimensions, I feel that the Calire still feels more at home with a suit or business/smart casual type of dress, and less with T-shirt and jeans. Overall a superb watch that I absolutely love to wear.

Video review of the second watch to come from Boutique watch company Egard. This is a fully Swiss Made affair with thick 20 micron gold plating and a Swiss ETA (Unitas) 6498 movement. This is a numbered limited production of 100 pieces. Its a great looking timepiece and a significant refinement over the first Egard Shade. Read more on the Egard site here: http://www.egardwatches.com

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