March 2011


Just remembered to post the Omega Speedy Pro Sapphire Sandwich review I posted a few days on youtube! Video review of the not-so-true-to-the-original Speedmaster Professional. This one has the Sapphire glass from and back, to the chagrin of the purists. The original has the Hesalite crystal front, and solid caseback. Since I am not going to the moon, nor is the actual watch I am buying the watch that went to the moon, I prefer this version. Its the practical man in me. Harder to scratch, and I like to see the movement!

I just received this press release from Breitling, but I’ve already seen these in stores. A bit late on their part, but I thought it was cool when I saw the watch – my Wife even said that she wouldn’t mind wearing one of these white Breitling for Bentley watches!

GRAND TOURERS TURN WHITE
They were already distinguished by their size, noticeably more compact than those of the other Breitling for Bentley models, and suited to all wrists. With the new special all-white “Ice” versions, the Bentley GT and Bentley GT Racing chronographs now also display a look that is well off the beaten track. This original and sophisticated appearance features an Ice White dial – an exclusive Bentley livery colour – teamed with a rubber strap in the same shade. The faces of these exceptional sports models, enhanced by rimmed counters, evoke the dashboards of the finest Bentley Grand Tourers. The bezel with its knurled raised motif is reminiscent of the characteristic control buttons of the prestigious British carmaker. In terms of the chassis, the Bentley GT Ice chronograph has a steel case with an all-polished finish, while the even more sophisticated Bentley GT Racing Ice version is distinguished by finishes alternating between satinbrushed upper surfaces and polished sides; and its caseback bears a medallion with the outline of the famous Bentley Continental GT, the epitome of power and elegance representing the quintessence of the Grand Tourer tradition. These two watches are driven by the selfwinding Breitling Calibre 13B chronograph movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC and equipped with a calendar displaying the day and date through a large twin aperture at 3 o’clock. The bidirectional rotating bezel serves to activate the “variable tachometer”, a world-exclusive Breitling feature. When used in conjunction with the chronograph, this system enables the user to measure mean speed whatever the time elapsed, the distance covered or the speed reached. Bentley GT Ice and Bentley GT Racing Ice: grand style follows its own road.

Specs:
Movement:
Breitling Calibre 13B, offi cially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations/hour), 25 jewels. 1/4th second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Day-date calendar.

Case:
steel. Water-resistant to 100 metres. Screw-locked crown. Bidirectional rotating pinion bezel with variable tachometer (circular slide rule). Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.

Diameter:
45 mm.

Dial:
Ice White.

Strap:
White rubber.

DUBEY & SCHALDENBRAND – Grand Shar DB

The Grand Shar DB is immediately captivating, but only on closer inspection does the brand’s characteristic attention to detail become evident. A chronograph movement with state-of-the-art finishing, a sculptural case, pushpieces and horns with alternating polished and satin finishing, and a dial of contrasting volumes with recessed counters flanked by large elongated Roman numerals. Every detail is another testimony to Dubey & Schaldenbrand’s expertise.

Movement
Automatic, Valjoux 7750 calibre, 28,800 vib/h, 25 jewels, circular ribbed decoration, openworked and DS personalised rotor, 48-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph

Case
316L stainless steel, 44 mm
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal and sapphire back
Water-resistant to 50 m / 5 ATM

Dial
Black, Côtes de Genève decor and rhodium-plated finishing
Hour counter at 6 o’clock
Minute counter at 12 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date window at 3.30

Strap
Black Louisiana alligator leather with folding clasp

Wow, what a piece! This new Urban Jurgensen timepiece is incredible and one of my favourite new pieces previewed.

URBAN JÜRGENSEN – Chronometer P8 “with detent escapement”

Urban Jürgensen has been producing chronometers ever since 1773! When watchmaker Peter Baumberger took over the company in 1979, he set a level of standards that has rarely been equalled. In 2003, he began work on an exceptional in-house movement designed as a bridge between the extremely accurate instruments made by Urban Jürgensen in the 18th century and the needs of contemporary mechanical watchmaking. This project succeeded thanks to the rapport between master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and designer Jean-François Mojon following the demise of Peter Baumberger in 2009. Today, the Chronometer P8 “with detent escapement” – adapted to the mechanical wristwatch – achieves a 40% better timing performance than the average COSC-certified chronometer. It is the first wristwatch with a Swiss escapement to be equipped with a pivoted detent, in other words without a pallet fork. A brand with strong horological credentials that links perfectly with the scientific watchmaking of the 18th century, the golden age of the measurement of time.

Movement
Automatic, UJS.08 calibre, double barrels and pivoted detent escapement, 88-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, stop seconds and power-reserve indicator

Case
18K pink or yellow gold or platinum, 42 mm
Sapphire crystal

Dial
Hand-guilloched solid silver
Roman numeral hourmarkers
Small seconds in off-centre counter at 6 o’clock
Power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock

Strap
Black leather with 18K red gold or platinum buckle

URWERK – UR-202S

“Since URWERK was founded, our creations have always been presented on a leather strap,” explains Martin Frei, artist and head designer at URWERK. “I love the timeless character of this noble material, the fusion of the hyper modernism of our watches and the classicism of their attachments. But I am also a great fan of solid, substantial objects. An all-steel model was therefore a choice I felt we just had to offer.” With the UR-202S, the hours are indicated on 3 rotating blocks. Each block has a telescopic minute pointer that moves across three minute segments (0-14; 15-44; 45-60). A moon phase and day/night indicator complete this contemporary tableau. Visible at the back of the UR-202S are two turbines coupled with the rotor that regulate the watch’s winding system.

Movement
Automatic, 7.03 calibre, 28,800 vib/h, satellite complication (patented) with moving hours and telescopic minutes

Functions
Hours, minutes, day/night indicator and moon phase

Case
Polished steel or AITiN (Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride) steel
45.7mm x 43.5mm x 15mm
Titanium back
Crown at 12 o’clock

Dial
ARCAP P40 plate and satellite hours, MOVIC-treated beryllium bronze transporters, titanium telescopic hand

Bracelet
Steel or AITiN steel with folding clasp

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