The Breitling Watch Blog

ORIS – Big Crown X1 Calculator

With its Big Crown collection, Oris demonstrates expertise in the field of tribute watches to historical aircraft. Inspired by the Bell X-1, the first plane to break the sound barrier, the Big Crown X1 Calculator refers to this era when flight plans were still made using slide rules, and accentuates this unique mechanism. Its rotating bezel serves to adjust the slide rule and to calculate fuel consumption for a given flight time, while the caseback displays a m/ft conversion table for international use. The chronograph push-pieces bear the X and 1, like a last nod to the date of the historical feat accomplished at 10:18 on October 14th 1947

Movement
Automatic, ETA Valjoux 7750

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph and slide rule

Case
PVD-coated gunmetal grey stainless steel, 46 mm
Sapphire crystal cambered on both sides with anti-glare treatment on both sides
Screw-in caseback with mineral crystal and m/ft scale
Rotating bezel with circular slide rule
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Metallised black/grey
Superluminova-enhanced minute-circle, hour-markers and hands
12-hour, 30-minute and small seconds counters at 6, 12 and 9 o’clock respectively
Date window between 4 and 5 o’clock and day window at 9 o’clock

Strap
Black calfskin leather

VASTO – “Universo” Tourbillon by Vasto

As the star model in the Universo collection, the Tourbillon represents the peak of horological complications by Vasto, a brand engaged in a perpetual quest for excellence. The tourbillon bridge shaped like a treble clef will appeal to aficionados of both fine timepieces and classical music. Such meticulous attention to detail is further displayed in the magnificent 50-diamond gem-setting adorning the tourbillon bridge and the dial opening at 9 o’clock ensuring an unobstructed view. The result is an exceptional rose gold timepiece radiating an exquisitely poetic aura.

Movement
Automatic. Twin-barrel tourbillon TT 791.00, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, 120-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours and minutes

CaseRound in 18K rose gold
Twelve-sided bezel in 18K rose gold
Sapphire crystal front and back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Silver-toned with 9 o’clock opening revealing the tourbillon
Treble key on the tourbillon set with 50 TW VS diamonds (0.13 cts)

Strap
Brown alligator with 18K rose gold pin buckle

HAMILTON – Hamilton Pan Europ

Building on a rich heritage of watchmaking know-how, Hamilton is offering a revisited and gently nostalgic interpretation of the Pan Europ, the brand’s first automatic chronograph launched in 1971 and equipped with the famous Calibre 11. With its sturdy, slightly square case, its red hands making a striking contrast with the deep blue dial and bezel, the new Pan Europ radiates tradition viewed from a resolutely contemporary perspective. The 1,971-piece limited edition is equipped with a Swiss high-grade automatic chronograph movement, the H31 calibre.

Movement
Automatic, Calibre H31, 60-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph and tachometric scale

Case
Stainless steel, 45 mm
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 m)

Dial
Blue
Colourful nickel hands
Blue unidirectional rotating bezel
Counters at 9 and 3 o’clock
Date window at 6 o’clock

Strap
Crocodile pattern chestnut brown leather

MAITRES DU TEMPS – Chapter One

With Chapter One, Maîtres du Temps has achieved an as yet unmatched technical feat: that of uniting a tourbillon, a mono-pusher chronograph, a retrograde date, a retrograde GMT and two separate rollers respectively indicating the day and the phases of the moon. It took the combined talent of Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin, together with the momentum provided by Steven Holtzman, for this youthful brand to revolutionise the world of grand complications.

Movement
Hand-wound, 558 components, 58 jewels, 60-hour power reserve, Côtes de Genève finishing, hand-bevelled

Functions
Hours, minute, seconds, day, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, chronograph and moon phase

Case
18K white gold, 5N (18K) red gold or titanium
Dimensions 63 x 45 x 18 mm
Crown in 2 positions: winding and time adjustment; activation of start/stop/return to zero chronograph function; correctors with integrated locking system
4 sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment on both sides

Dial
18K gold
Sunray guilloché and hand-bevelled
18K gold diamond-facetted or blue stamped steel hands

Strap
Black alligator with 18K white gold or 5N (18K) red gold folding clasp

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MAITRES DU TEMPS – Chapter Two

Chapter Two is the second entirely original and innovative timepiece from Maîtres du Temps. It stems from a unique cooperation between Daniel Roth and Peter Speake-Marin, who have pushed the limits of haute horlogerie with the world’s most legible instantaneous triple calendar timepiece. This model combines a large date with the day of the week and the month of the year written out in full on their respective rollers at 6 and 12 o’clock. A truly stunning creation!

Movement
Automatic, 382 components, 32 jewels, 50-hour power reserve, Côtes de Genève sunray finishing, vertical circular graining and hand-bevelled

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date and month

Case
18K white gold or 5N (18K) red gold
Dimensions 58 x 42 x 16 mm
Day and month correctors ergonomically integrated into the back of the case
Six anti-reflective sapphire crystals

Dial
Silver
Sunray guilloché
Diamond-cut hands in 18K white gold or 5N (18K) red gold

Strap
Black alligator with 18K white gold or 5N (18K) red gold folding clasp

HANHART – Primus Pilot

Hanhart is synonymous with reliable and robust high precision watch instruments for use in the air, on land and on water. The Primus Pilot is a perfect example of this, underscoring this Swiss/German brand’s tradition and unique know-how. Hanhart has chosen an elegant black for this re-interpretation of one of its legendary aviator chronographs.

Movement
Automatic, HAN38 chronograph calibre, 28,800 vib/h, 4 Hz, 25 jewels, 42-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph

Case
Steel with black ADLC, 44 mm
Red pushpiece at 2 o’clock
Fluted bezel
Flexible horns
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal front and back
Water-resistant to 100 m / 10 ATM

Dial
Black
Hourmarkers and hands with Superluminova
Minute and small seconds counters at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively
Date window at 6 o’clock

Strap
Black leather

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HANHART – Primus Diver

The Primus Diver from Hanhart is in tune with its time. Nevertheless, references to the brand’s past are not lacking. These include its famous red pushpiece, one of the brand’s identifying features since 1939, designed to make the chronograph more user-friendly for fighter pilots, the fluted bezel and the bi-composite dial. The 2011 version of the Primus Diver is clean and cool in its black ADLC-treated case.

Movement
Automatic, HAN38 calibre chronograph, 28,800 vib/h, 4 Hz, 25 jewels, 42-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph

Case
Steel with black ADLC, 44 mm
Red pushpiece at 2 o’clock
Fluted, rotating, unidirectional bezel
Flexible horns
Antireflective convex sapphire crystal front and back
Water-resistant 100 m / 10 ATM

Dial
Black
Hourmarkers and hands with Superluminova
Minute and small seconds counters at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively
Date window at 6 o’clock

Bracelet
Vulcanised rubber with folding clasp