February 2011


ANTOINE PREZIUSO – “Power Inside” Unlimited

This year, Antoine Preziuso is presenting a resolutely pumped-up model named “Power Inside”. Running in tandem with its owner, this timepiece indicates the level of vitality drawn from a spring wound by the wearer’s activities and transmitted to a circular rotor. This extremely environment-friendly form of energy derived from human movement is more up to date than ever. The “Energy” segment in the bottom left-hand side of the dial bears permanent testimony to the level of power in its mechanism. A sophisticated and dynamic design with a resolutely masculine look and a light, sturdy structure contribute to making this timepiece truly exceptional.

Movement
Automatic, Calibre APG 297, 21 jewels, 42-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, and Energy indicator

Case
Stainless steel, 48 mm
Upper and lower bezel secured to the middle by 12 lateral pillars and 24 screws
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment
Engraved and satin-brushed caseback
Water-resistant to 50 m / 5 ATM

Dial
“Côtes de Genève” motif
Energy indicator at 8 o’clock with sunburst motif
Openworked hands

Strap
Porosus crocodile leather and carbon fibre with overstitching and personalised folding clasp

Breitling launched a new Automatic Chronospace, based on the old standby Caliber 23 movement. The Chronospace has such an awesome case and dial design that I think its great they are now making it available to Automatic Watch enthusiasts! When I first saw the Chronospace Automatic I thought it was going to be a B01 movement, but its not. This will make it more affordable for many buyers. Combine that with a solid 46mm case size, which is popular with the big watch crowd that collects Breitling and I think we have a winner here!

Movement: Breitling Caliber 23, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 25 jewels. ¼th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Calendar.
Case: steel. Water-resistant to 200 m (660 ft/20 bars).Screw-locked crown. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Bidirectional rotating pinion bezel (slide rule). Screwed in caseback.
Diameter: 46 mm.
Dials: Volcano Black, Mariner Blue, Tungsten Gray, Stratus Silver.
Straps/Bracelet: leather, rubber Diver Pro (with raised central ridge), Ocean Racer rubber (perforated)/Aero Classic
in woven steel.

“HIGH PERFORMANCES AND STANDOUT LOOKS

With its ultra-original star-shaped bezel and its resolutely technical appearance, the new Chronospace Automatic is distinguished by an exceptional design, combined with all the qualities of an authentic Breitling pilot’s instrument.

From the Navitimer to the Chronomat, along with the Superocean and the Aerospace, Breitling instruments for professionals are distinguished not only by their performances, but also by their unique and powerful looks. They radiate strong character and are recognizable at a glance. The new Chronospace Automatic pilot’s chronograph is no exception, combining form and function with inimitable style. Thanks to its unusual star-shaped design that makes it easy to use even when wearing gloves, the bidirectional rotating bezel ensures simple and easy handling of the circular slide rule serving to perform all calculations relating to airborne navigation – a valuable asset in terms of ergonomics and functionality.

The sophisticated rack and pinion system driving the slide rule guarantees water resistance to 200 meters (600 ft), an exceptional achievement for this type of instrument. The large 12 o’clock numeral, square hour-markers and oversized hands, all accentuated by a luminescent coating, lend the dial a vigorous and dynamic aesthetic that ensures maximum readability and visibility, even in poor lighting conditions. The extreme precision of the time display and of short-time measurements is ensured by the Breitling Caliber 23 selfwinding chronograph movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC like all the brand’s movements. The new Chronospace Automatic is available with a choice of four dial colors – Volcano Black, Mariner Blue, Tungsten Gray and Stratus Silver – enhanced by black totalizers. The understated, powerful lines of the sturdy steel case are combined, according to taste and to usage, with various types of strap or bracelet, including sporty versions in rubber and a daring bracelet in satinbrushed woven steel. A perfect way of combining high performances with standout looks.”

There she is! My Breitling Avenger Seawolf. Its been a while since I picked up a new Breitling, and considering that this is the Breitling Source, I figured it was about time. I’ve been wanting several of the new exhibition back B01 limited editions since they’ve come out, but they are pretty pricey and dealers have been reluctant to offer any discount whatsoever, meaning that they are all around $8000+. That means this Avenger Seawolf in stainless steel will have to tide me over until I can scrounge up the scratch.

Beautiful pale yellow dial doesn’t draw too much attention but gives it that little bit of “je ne sais quoi” that gives it some diver pedigree – as if the 10,000ft water resistance wasn’t enough 😉 The dial features a bit more llume than the previous Seawolf with the large markers at 12, 6 and 9 – a welcome addition to Breitling’s typically stingy lume. Arabics are not silver nor lumed, contrary to what you might think. They are a gunmetal chrome color, which seems to fit well with the dial.

The Helium escape valve is located at 9 o’clock, and is pretty necessary for a watch that is good down to 10,000ft. Even the 5000ft rated SuperOcean has an escape valve, but that’s it for similarities between the two watches. The Avenger Seawolf shares the case style of the Avenger series of watches from Breitling, being very similar to the Avenger Chronograph, but actually thicker, due to the increased water resistance.

The watch measures 45.4mm in diameter, and features the Breitling 17 Caliber automatic movement. To find out the rest of the specs see the Breitling Source page here: http://www.breitlingsource.com/watch_details/Aeromarine_181.html

The Avenger Seawolf comes on either Rubber/Leather straps or the fantastic Pro II bracelet. I think the watch works best on the brushed Professional II by far, and possibly the new Rubber Deployant if you are going to be going into the water a lot with it. Unfortunately the Pro II doesn’t have the raised Wings logo.

Another shot of the great dial featuring all the writing declaring the 10,000ft water resistance and COSC certification. The watch is only available in stainless steel, and a few dial color options: Yellow, Slate-Grey, Air Force Blue, Volcano Black and Stratus Silver. The watch is also available now with the Baton markers instead of the Stencil Arabics, though I greatly prefer the Stencils numbers.

And finally, the wrist shot! The massic 45.4mm case sits very nicely on my 6.75″ wrist, and doesn’t seem too large like the Super Avenger does. I think this is the perfect large size watch for me and am really glad they went to this size for their Not-So-Super Avenger sized Cases. Thanks Breitling for making such a great watch!

TISSOT – Seastar 1000

With its imposing design and its extremely sturdy case water-resistant to 300 m, the Seastar 1000 by Tissot continues the brand’s incursion into the diving world. This chronograph combines the performances of an automatic movement with the noble aesthetic appeal of a timepiece that defies the oceans and featuring a number of nods to the maritime world. A unidirectional rotating bezel, a wristband with diving buckle as well hands and markers coated with Superluminova to ensure perfect readability. Each model also has a helium valve for saturation diving – an additional step that Tissot is taking in the underwater depths, a field in which it is gaining ever increasing expertise.

Movement
Automatic, Calibre CO1.211

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph

Case
Black or blue PVD-treated stainless steel, 48 mm
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Screw-locked crown, pushers and screw-in caseback
Helium valve
Water-resistant to 300 m / 30 bars

Dial
Black, blue, black and white or black and orange
Superluminova-coated markers and hour and minute hands
Blue chronograph hands
Hour, minute and seconds counters at 6, 12 and 9 o’clock respectively
Date window at 3 o’clock

Wristband
316L stainless steel bracelet with safety fastening and diving extension; rubber strap with folding clasp

Wow – this is a hell of a looker. The Blacksand Uniformity. Having searched all over the net with little to no information on this brand, I have to assume they are new as there is a domain registered to www.blacksandgeneve.com but no website currently there.

Beautiful DLC coated movement, dubbed the Black Sand Caliber 1970, is fantastic in appearance and features double barrels giving it 5 day power reserve! I’m pretty excited to see some more stuff coming out from these guys, including more information on the company.

BLACKSAND – Uniformity

A striking emblem of a watchmaking trend firmly geared towards authenticity, Uniformity takes up the challenge of marrying sophisticated aesthetic references with a superb expression of the noblest watchmaking arts. Its easily identifiable design is asserted through the distinctive structure of a strongly curved case housing a finely crafted movement. This COSC- and Chronofiable-certified automatic movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a five-day power reserve. The hands and hour-markers light up the dark background of a shimmering opaline blue dial, ensuring maximum readability and aesthetic magic. With this model, Blacksand is preparing the way for a new watchmaking style that is “conjugated” in both modern present and classic future tenses.

Movement
Automatic, Blacksand Calibre 1970, 13¼ lignes, 35 jewels, twin barrels

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date

Case
Grade 5 titanium, tantalum, 5N pink gold or ceramics, 46 mm
Sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment, front and back
Water-resistant to 100 m

Cadran
Two-dimensional, opaline mainplate and vertical satin-brushed upper plate
Hour-markers, vacuum-moulded Arabic numerals and satin-brushed hands coated with blue-emission white Superluminova
Date window at 6 o’clock

Wristband
Interchangeable. Tech rubber or alligator leather strap with triple-blade folding clasp in grade 5 titanium or 5N pink gold, ceramic pushers

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