Thu 3 Dec 2009
Technica 1902 and the Swiss Made Sham
Posted by The Breitling Source under Watch Tips & Tricks[4] Comments
It wasn’t that long ago that when you purchased a New Swiss Made automatic Watch, you were guaranteed at least an ETA 2824 movement in it. While the ETA 2824 movement is by no means a rare or exciting automatic movement, it is reliable and can be very accurate in it’s highest level of finish. The ETA 2824 is used by a very large number of companies including Breitling, Hamilton, Oris, Omega, Tudor, Eterna, Tag Heuer and many many others including most of the German Brands.
ETA 2824-2 from a Limes Watch
After that came the Sellita SW200 movement, a direct copy of the ETA 2824 that is mostly made in Switzerland. While it is unknown how much of the parts are made in China, they at least come close to ETA in their quality. They are cheaper movements, and many brands including Invicta, Oris, Enzo and Eterna have begun to use the Selitta SW200 in their watches. I don’t mind the Selitta too much, at least it is somewhat comparable to the ETA-2824. The next step is a bit more disturbing.
While its not a new thing, many people many not be aware that an Invicta brand named Technica Swiss Ebauches purchases chinese made Sea-Gull movements and final finishes them in Switzerland and badges them as Swiss Made. Swiss Made regulations only provide that at least 50% of the value of the movement must be from Switzerland. With the price of the Chinese Ebauches being so low, its not difficult to refinish the movements in Switzerland in order to meet the criteria.
Swiss Mechanical Invictas
This is an unfortunate situation, and devalues the Swiss Made brand. Invicta has done well by selling a large number of watches, purchasing higher end brands like S. Coifman and devaluing them as well. While I think that Invicta has some good value in their lines, the majority of their designs are either very ugly, or hommages. The Invictas above sell for $119, and claim to have Swiss Made movements inside them.
I guess the point I am trying to make here is that the Swiss Made brand is being devalued and I think its a shame – hopefully its prestige can be maintained rather than be tainted by the likes of Invicta.
December 3rd, 2009 at 4:52 pm
Don’t blame Invicta, blame the Swiss players who made up the 50% rule. They knew what they were doing. The 50% means just that, 49.999999% of the cost can be done outside of Switzerland, thus saving the players money while carrying on the myth of gnomes and elves working by candlelight. Invicta (and others) are playing by the rules. They aren’t “claiming” anything, they are telling the truth. If this was about a speed limit of 65 MPH, they aren’t breaking the law for going 64.99999 MPH.
Ugly (and I agree with you) has absolutely nothing to do with Swiss Made or homage.
As you state, buying from Sea-Gull certainly gets you way under 50%.
That being the case why was 50% picked in the first place?
Don’t blame Sea-Gull. They certainly aren’t doing anything underhanded.
December 6th, 2009 at 2:57 pm
You are correct. What Invicta is doing is perfectly within the confines of the law, and no different than what Defense Attorney’s are doing when they get Murderers off the hook because of technicalities or holes in the system. Its the system’s fault, really for being imperfect, not the Lawyer’s for getting a murderer off that he knows killed someone.
You are however, absolutely right, Dave. I just don’t agree with it. There are many things I don’t agree with that are legal, but that’s me.
December 17th, 2009 at 8:20 am
The global economy combined with the low cost of Asian labor has encouraged the outsourcing of manufacturing. While no one can question the quality of the Swiss movement, one should question the priceing particularly the use of the same movements,eg. ETA and Sellita in watches that vary in price from $ 200 to well over $ 2500. Essentially one is paying for the name and not really for the true quality of the watch. Recently, I purchased an Invicta 2014 which has the ETA 2824-2 movement. At Loehmann’s the list price was $ 799, which they sold for $500. On a final sale I paid $ 260.At the same store, I paid $ 80 for an Invicta containing the Sellita SW200 movement.
Regarding the Chinese watches, the same movements are being used in the Lucien Piccards, Marcel Druckers, Troikas,Stauers,Akribos, Stuhrligs, etc. Only with time will one see how these pieces hold up.My experience is that they are good time keepers, but there is an issue with quality control, as there have been issues with individual pieces. In general ,I like them.
Regarding the “Technnica Swiss Ebauche 1902”, I have an Invicta 5105. This mechanical chronograph has a 30 minute dial at the 3 position ,a 12 hr dial at the 6 pos, and the 60 sec. at the 9 position. The watch keeps great time, and is well made.
March 19th, 2011 at 10:52 pm
Thanks for the imformation in your post I had no ideal, of what was going on , will make a big difference, on any of my future purchases